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Cowboy Ridge T 
Tatooine T 

Tatooine 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 15 pitches, 1420', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Joe French, Caleb Padgett, Zach Lee. Feb 2009
Season: sept-may
Page Views: 7,215
Submitted By: javi on Aug 22, 2012

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Richard Shore following P7. Photo by Brian Prince

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tatoween ascends the cracks up the next buttress left of Jolly reen Giant jam crack. this is an excellent and well equiped line that rarely accepts pro bigger than fists. there is a bivy for four atop pitch 5 on a spacious ledge. expect sustained 5.10 climbing interspersed with more challenging cruxes here and there.

15 pitches cruxs @ p1p2p9p12
P1(1&2 120')starts w/ 5.11 stem
P2continues up right to 5.11 fingers flake topped by 2 bolt anchor
P3-(100')5.11 hands for about 50'then 5.10 about 50'
P4-(60') 5.8 to a large tree on right side of ledge
P5(200') shimmy dihedral crack 5.8-5.9 to ledge w 3 trees finish pitch going left up 3rd class terrain to bolts and !bivy ledge for four to the right!
P6 5.10+ ("DesertTower" 2bolts pro) and ("Ghost" 2bolts pro) to 1 bolt
P7 a little after the 5th bolt on 5 switch cracks to the left into the 5.8 stem... finish w 2 bolt anchor
P8 (bottom of 8 to ledge 200')continue up to one bolt pro. then switch cracks to the right
P9 then 5.11 fingers to 5.9 face past 2 bolts pro
to 2 bolt anchor.
P10 traverse ledge right to 1 bolt pull overhang into corner system to thin fingers 5.10+ pass 1 bolt face climb to 2bolt anchor
p11 face climb past 2 bolts to 5.11 finger crack
p12 chimney up to leftward traverse into 5,6 chimney
P13 climb directly of belay into corner or out left to another crack system tha leads to a ledge with 1 bolt to a 5.9 offwidth climb offwidth and chimney to ledge
P14 5.9 chimney to 2 bolt anchor
p15 go left of p14 anchor into wide chimney... 5.10 to large tree (165')


Location 

Mt. Kinesava

Protection 

3ea .5"-3"
2ea 3.5"
1ea 4"-4.5"
2 extra 1-1.5"
2 extra 3"
nuts
2ea 60m ropes (mandatory)


Photos of Tatooine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Prince following P9 5.11
Brian Prince following P9 5.11
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Prince leading P10 5.10+
Brian Prince leading P10 5.10+
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Shore following the P1/2 linkup. Photo by ...
Richard Shore following the P1/2 linkup. Photo by ...
Rock Climbing Photo: BPrince following P6 5.10+ "Desert Tower"...
BPrince following P6 5.10+ "Desert Tower"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Prince leading P1 5.11
Brian Prince leading P1 5.11
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Prince leading P7 5.10+
Brian Prince leading P7 5.10+
Rock Climbing Photo: Tatoween, route goes up face of pillar left of the...
BETA PHOTO: Tatoween, route goes up face of pillar left of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: javi on summit of TATOWEEN!
javi on summit of TATOWEEN!
Rock Climbing Photo: view of biv. at bese of climb
BETA PHOTO: view of biv. at bese of climb
Rock Climbing Photo: beginning of P15 (left of 14s anchor bolts) 15 is ...
BETA PHOTO: beginning of P15 (left of 14s anchor bolts) 15 is ...
Rock Climbing Photo: garrett weaver in rap tree on summit
garrett weaver in rap tree on summit
Rock Climbing Photo: bottom up of P6
BETA PHOTO: bottom up of P6
Rock Climbing Photo: biv. ledge top of P5. dihedral corner in r of pic....
BETA PHOTO: biv. ledge top of P5. dihedral corner in r of pic....
Rock Climbing Photo: me on biv ledge
me on biv ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: rap tree at top of P4, P5 starts here w/ a short s...
BETA PHOTO: rap tree at top of P4, P5 starts here w/ a short s...
Rock Climbing Photo: traverse R from belay to a bolt bottom of P10
BETA PHOTO: traverse R from belay to a bolt bottom of P10
Rock Climbing Photo: bottom up P11
BETA PHOTO: bottom up P11
Rock Climbing Photo: belay at top of P9
BETA PHOTO: belay at top of P9
Rock Climbing Photo: bottom up P9?
BETA PHOTO: bottom up P9?
Rock Climbing Photo: bottom up P7
BETA PHOTO: bottom up P7
Rock Climbing Photo: tatoween
BETA PHOTO: tatoween
Rock Climbing Photo: bottom up P4
bottom up P4
Rock Climbing Photo: bottom up P2 &P3
BETA PHOTO: bottom up P2 &P3
Rock Climbing Photo: bottom up of P5 to biv ledge
BETA PHOTO: bottom up of P5 to biv ledge

Show All 30 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Tatooine Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 18, 2017
By Caleb Padgett
From: Rockville, utah
Aug 23, 2012

This is a fantastic line. The climbing is varied and sustained. This wall is HOT. We established it over the course of a few weeks in January. When the daytime temps were in the high 50's we were climbing in t-shirts. The bivy ledge is prime and stays much warmed than the canyon below. The last pitch is likely in the 5.10 range, don't get your hopes up thinking you have an easy 5.5 to the top. This route deserves more traffic and is surprisingly clean and (relatively) moderate considering its length and steepness of the wall.
By Ethan Newman
Dec 13, 2012

What a line! Matty VB and I climbed it on 12/13/12. We got away with doubles from blue metolius to BD 3, with one BD 4 and a purple metolius with extra finger sizes (yellow metolius to red metolius). We were able to link p1/2 (extend under roof), p4/5 (with some simuling and a stance belay), p 8/9, an p13/14 (plan for rope drag).

Approach: chinle trail to huber wash, walk up the wash until it starts getting really blocky and steep. Look for cairns on the right, follow them up the steep dirt/sand slope until you're above the springdale band. Then head left, crossing over the wash, and up a spine of dirt towards the second huge buttress left of king's corner. Reverse to descend. About 2-3 hours.

Descent: We did single rope raps from the summit to the top of guidebook p11. Tat around blocks, etc. makes this possible. Be careful on the rap from the top of p11 to the top of p9; there is some rope eating varnish. From there, the raps are pretty good double rope raps.

All in all, a sweet climb.

Also, the rope tat on the summit rap needs to be replaced soon.
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Feb 4, 2013

Do you need to permit to bivy on this route?

edit: From what I've been able to find no permit is required to bivy on this route. Could someone verify this information?
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 5, 2013

My understanding is that a permit is required for any climbing bivy within Zion National Park, even if the approach starts outside the park.
By jborof borof
Feb 17, 2013

anybody got a topo?
By Richard Shore
Dec 22, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Wow, excellent line! Lots of sustained crack climbing with a bit of face thrown in the mix. I felt that this line was much more demanding than Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk, which is the same length and grade (albeit on granite). Without much trouble, we did the route in 10 pitches with a 60M, linking the ST pitches as follows: 1&2, 3&4, 5, 6, 7, 8&9, 10&11, 12, 13&14 (rope drag!), 15. 6&7 might also link, but it'd be one hell of a burly pitch done that way. Route goes pretty quickly if linking. As for gear, the OP description is a verbatim copy from the guidebook, and WAY overkill. Ideal rack - doubles from blue TCU to blue Camalot, single #4, no stoppers. We had triples in fingers, and never placed them, and I wouldn't consider either of us particularly bold climbers. An extra 2 or 3 camalot would be nice for the 5.10 hands P3 if you don't want to walk those pieces a loooong ways. A great sunny winter wall!
By Adam Pecan
From: Moab, UT
Mar 13, 2015

Fun route! T shirts all day with clear skies and a nice breeze in the beginning of March. Links well in 9 pitches. 6 and 7 link well with a 70 as long as you plan for the traverse.
By Michael Logan
Mar 27, 2015

As I was drooling over this route, my nine year old son, who is a star wars nut, glanced at the screen and informed me that the spelling of this route name is incorrect. He tells me that Tatooine is in the outer rim and that it is spelled TATOOINE. Glad to contribute this vital beta.
By JulianG
Apr 28, 2015

Do people usually do this route in one or two days?
By Caleb Padgett
From: Rockville, utah
Apr 29, 2015

This route has been climbed in a day. But with the 2-3 hr approach and 14 pitches of climbing many parties will want an extra day. For those needing extra time bivying at the base or the spacious ledge at P5 is probably the best bet.
By MarkDavis
Jan 26, 2016

Uhhh.... Tatooine is spelled Tatooine.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Mar 5, 2016

Maybe they were listening to lots of Chocolate and Cheese while watching Star Wars?
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 6, 2016

Sure, Tatooine is a fictional planet part of a binary star system (not to mention the home of the Skywalker clan...) but I think this route is called Tatoween and should therefore be called Tatoween.
By sam123456789
Apr 14, 2016

climbed in Feb. before closures- top notch! Ethan and Richardss gear beta above right on. I am not a particularly bold climber and found the crack was varied enough that this was more than an adequate rack- even when linking pitches.
also, I would have to be running to do the approach in 2 hours!
By Danger-Russ Gordon
From: Tempe, AZ
Jan 5, 2017

how reasonable is it to French free/aid some of the crux sections? I would love to do this route, but might take longer than most, how likely is it that I would be in the way of some more able free climber on the crux sections?
By BigNobody
From: all over, mostly Utah
Jan 6, 2017

My ropegun has done this route. He assured me that I could get my dusty ass up it, as it was on my list after the guidebook came out. As long as you're not out there on a college break weekend, you'll most likely be the only one's on the route. Post up if you go!
By Seth Maciejowski
Feb 3, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Sweet route! Two punters from Vermont lacking in the crack climbing department sent and had a great experience! We thought a pitch by pitch grade might be helpful since the guidebook is a bit "nebulous" about the grades on a few of the pitches and this route has a lot more in store then you would expect from the book descriptions particularly on the upper pitches...
P1 : 11a technical
P2: 10b short n' steep
P3: 10d steep long hands...
P4: 5.8 to tree
P5; 5.9 thru third class to bivi ledge a smidge wide in spots
P6: 10+ techy stems/ lie back jams to ghost belay
P7 10+ techy stems to hard pull left to 5.8 crack and stem
P8: 10+ steep lay away jamming
P9: 10c chicken heads
P10 : 10c steep fingers but short
P11 ; 10d fingers plus techy stems
P12: 11a steep fingers
P13 : 10b fingers to sandy traverse and 5.6 chimney on boxcar
P14: 5.10b right hand corner to short pure 5.9 ow
P15 : 10a 5.9 hands to 10a corner to slippery sandy 5.9+ Scary. Move belay into chimney to make this 160' long
We linked 1&2 and 8&9 and bivied on top of p5. Gear descriptions above a pretty accurate
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Feb 17, 2017

A note for the next team on the route that reads this: If the blue rope is still at the tree on top of P4, I strongly recommend carrying it to the top of the climb to replace the junk show that is the first rappel. Currently, that anchor is a tied off tree (about 25 feet from the edge of the cliff) with a mess of core strands splayed about that is equalized with new webbing (~10') we added that's just tied to the rope above the coreshot. It would be a good community service to get that blue cord up there and carry the trashed tat down. I would have had I known. Have fun up there!!!
By Caleb Padgett
From: Rockville, utah
Feb 17, 2017

I would be thrilled if the rappel station at the top of the route was bolted along with the rap off the tree at the 4th pitch. We tried our best to avoid any nylon at anchors, I knew the anchor on top was going to get hammered and require a lot of material to replace. Anyhow I am super happy people are getting on this route and enjoying it.
By Thomas Gilmore
Feb 18, 2017

There is a ring tailed cat (not really a cat) who lives at the base of the route. He's friendly and cute but thinks he owns your food. Don't forget to hang your food and trash..

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