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Tatoosh 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 6,290
Submitted By: Scott W on May 27, 2008

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View of the upper layback from the top. Photo by ...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Good gear the whole way, bring a good sized rack with a full set of stoppers and doubles in the finger sized pieces. Lots of finger-locking up corners. Finishes on steep holds just above a recently cut stump. Great climb!

update:7/31/2011- The stump has been removed thanks to the valiant efforts of Chris Hensen. This route used to be called Free at Last, now it's just Tatoosh. If instead of going up the dihedral, you break right half way up and head up the offwidth, it links into P2 of the original Tatoosh route(4 pitches long, goes all way the to the top of the wall). There's fun climbing on the original Tatoosh, really fun actually. I tried to clean it up a few years ago, but it was a FUNNEL of debris. I dug out the cracks on the upper pitches and loosed tons of blocks, but I imagine the 5.2 section getting to them is still packed with dirt.

Location 

Starts 3 feet right of Thin Fingers on the recently brushed dihedral.

Protection 

Standard rack up to 2" inches, doubles in finger sized gear.


Photos of Tatoosh Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan at the top of the chimney section of Tatoosh
Dan at the top of the chimney section of Tatoosh
Rock Climbing Photo: Tatoosh from the Base  Thin fingers can be seen to...
Tatoosh from the Base Thin fingers can be seen to...

Comments on Tatoosh Add Comment
Show which comments
By blakeherrington
Dec 21, 2008

You need a 70m rope to rap/lower/TR this one. You can swing over to intermediate anchors on Thin fingers to get back to the ground if you only have a 60m.
By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Although this route may have been 10b before it was cleaned; with the bolt and the removal of the stump/major cleaning it feels like the easiest 10 at index...
By Eric Fjellanger
Jul 17, 2009

The description and name of this route seem to agree with Darryl Cramer's Sky Valley Rock, although it is now nice and clean.

stanford.edu/~clint/index/ltwr...

This route seems to be what the Cummins Guide calls "Free at Last, 5.10b R".

Either way, a fun route!
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 11, 2011

This is one of my favorite routes at Index. A rewarding mix of crack, technical stemming, and a little chimney/offwidth thrown in for good measure.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Beautiful route, long and Technical fun.
By Laurel Fan
Jun 5, 2014

If one is unsure about the moves and/or gear before the first bolt, it is possible to cheat the start by scrambling in from climber's right to the ledge above the bolt.
By rohanbk
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

One can also place a pretty good #0.5 cam in a slot a few feet below the bolt before making the moves up to the bolt. It's pretty heady since there is the possibility of decking, but if you trust your feet, you'll be fine :)
By Serge Smirnov
Jun 19, 2016

What used to be two pitches is now one 35m pitch.

Lots of lieback fingers. Feeling near my limit, I used triple 0.2-0.5 camalots (nuts would work some places). Didn't find anything larger than #1 camalot.

To me no move (including Free At Last 10b) felt harder than the crux of Toxic Shock lieback (supposedly 5.9). But Tatoosh is much longer and fairly sustained. Free At Last 10b may be finger size dependent.

The move to clip the bolt 5m off the ground is protectable with good but awkwardly located cams. Should work better for 6-footers.

Save 10mm gear (0.2 camalots) for the 10b part. There are ledges to fall on, but the crack takes gear every few feet.
By Zacks
Jul 13, 2016

Thought it was quite a bit harder than toxic shock, the lie back of toxic shock is bomber fingers (.5-.4) and this has a lot more .3 (x4) and reaches where the crack is too small for my fingers, maybe if you have small fingers its easier? Either way super fun, eats nuts and cams in the smaller sizes (especially .3 and a section of .5)