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Main Wall (aka The Gorilla Head Buttress)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bodhisattva Arête  T 
Conception T 
Lightening Bear TR 
Samsara Roof T 
Tatanka T 
Tatanka Direct T 
Thunder Bunny S 
Wounded Eagle T 

Tatanka 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jonathan Reinig, John Reinig, Josh Reinig.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 439
Submitted By: Joshua Reinig on Apr 1, 2014

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Looking down at the start of Tatanka.

  • This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land. MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    One of the Easier routes at Old Castle. From far right side of Central Ledge, climb up and right 30 feet through grassy, blocky, 5.0 terrain. This will put you directly under the right slabs of the Gorilla Head Buttress. Climb either very large grassy right facing corner, or better yet climb broken cracked feature 15 feet right of corner to large visor roof. Pull the roof on left side in the corner via awkward body slot groove. Now climb directly up vertical yet protectable face 25' to belay station at top of buttress.

    Location 

    Tatanka is found at the extreme far right margin of the main wall obvious low angle slabs capped by roof.

    Protection 

    Many slung constrictions. Gear up to 3 inches. Giant slung Boulder at top of climb for belay anchor.


    Photos of Tatanka Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: ST at the start of Tatanka as seen from right side...
    ST at the start of Tatanka as seen from right side...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew cranking the final moves on Tatanka!
    Andrew cranking the final moves on Tatanka!

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