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Tasmanian Devil 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Ken Nichols, August 1982
Season: All year if you be a hearty mate
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: percious on Dec 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Yellow helmet on Tasmanian Devil


Usually this one is top-roped from the 2nd Crack TR. Pull the difficult overhang to the left of 2nd Crack and continue up thin face moved to the top. Pulling the bottom crux moves was one of the highlights of my CT climbing days, even if it was on TR. Sustained 5.9+ moves get you to the top.


Top Rope.

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By atruss
Jun 24, 2010

Erosion has increased the difficulty at the start; short climbers will have a difficult time starting the proper way.
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Jun 5, 2012

Has this one been freed? If not it should not have the X rating. TR climbs don't get X ratings.
By T Roper
Jun 7, 2012

FA does not mean free, that would be FFA Brian. just sayin from the land of top rope FAs known as CT
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Aug 9, 2012

Finally got this one clean on t.r. after a few attempts over the years. That thing at the bottom can be done in one strenuous move once you figure out the holds (if your tall enough). I have also seen others dance around with 3 or 4 moves to do the same thing. The face above is very sustained , but a nice direct line can be had at the grade. I thought that this was easier than the entertainer, which gets 5.10 in the book, which i still have not gotten clean.
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Aug 10, 2012

Brian - by gear do you mean hooks? Tied down hooks do not constitute gear and does not'qualify' as a free ascent even in Ken's own book.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Aug 10, 2012

I can't comment specifically on the gear on this climb but, as I commented on "Sunshine" another "freed" climb, by "free" I mean you place maybe one or two pieces of gear and are in ground-fall range for a good portion of the climb. Does that count as a trad lead or is it a free-solo with some placed gear so you can call it a trad lead? Lots of freed climbs were done like that in CT.

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