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YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Spring 1996
Page Views: 587
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 14, 2001

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  • Description 

    Tarzan is the furthest left (West) route on the Highlander crag. It runs up a slab to a large roof that is passed via a truly unpleasant hand jam. A short face and another overlap lead up to the anchor. Frankly, I found the first roof distasteful, very painful, and I only top-ropped it. Funny thing is Alan dangled around a bit to get the beta, pulled the rope, and fired off the red point without so much as a word about the jam. Now I know for a fact that Alan feels pain as much as most of us, and after the red point burn his hand looked like it had been driven over by a fully loaded semi. Even a Neanderthal grunt would have revealed something about the roof move. Two stars because if you pull this off (not the hand, stupid!) then the rest is quite good climbing.


    7 QDs and a rope. Double bolt anchor at the top.

    Comments on Tarzan Add Comment
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    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 14, 2001

    Okay lads. Here is an attempt to get the numbering on one of the crags up to date with the published literature. I have used Mark Rolofson's guide to CC (1999) for the numbering of the Highlander Crag. This begins with "Tarzan" on the very left end of the crag as # 1 and swings right to # 34, "Geezer" on the far East face. This allows me to asign numbers to all known projects and recently added routes, and I believe this to be complete. However, if anyone knows of an un-published project here, please e-mail it to me and I'll fix the numbering accordingly.
    By chris way
    Aug 17, 2001

    Although the crack looks like an obvious solution to the roof, it's quite dirty and i managed to climb it without using a jam at all. If you plan on climbing this route don't have a second person do the cleaning - the drag is terrible. The climb needs a date with a brush.
    By Joe Keyser
    From: Scottsdale, AZ
    May 19, 2003

    Pulling accross the roof with the crack isn't so bad. But, pulling over the lip onto the face above wasn't happening for me! I had to leave a nice biner up there if anyone wants it...

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