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Taruntulace shoes
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Dec 17, 2015
I was wondering on what some opinions are on the la sportiva taruntulace rockclimber56
Joined Oct 1, 2015
0 points
Dec 17, 2015
I had a pair for a short period of time. They were tight but very comfortable initally but stretched a little more, and more quickly, than I expected. The frixion rubber is not terrible, but not as sticky as the xs edge (not that the xs edge is the pinnacle of stickiness- it's just sportiva's "next in line"). I found them to be ok at edging, ok at smearing, and ok at crack climbing, and amazing at being comfortable. However, they were too imprecise to be great at edging, not sticky enough to be great at smearing, and too bulky to be great at crack climbing. I probably enjoyed them most the handful of times I had them at the gym. They were plenty comfortable to spend all day in meaning I could just bounce from route to route without any pain. Ultimately, I get the idea that it is intended to be a shoe that gets new climbers in the door. It was a great place to start. In hindsight, I wish I'd started with something better, or at least better suited to me and the climbing I do.

You didn't state that you were shopping, but if you are looking to buy something along those lines and in that price range, I'd recommend the nago from sportiva. They're $70 at Sierra Trading Post which is about what you'll find the tarantulace for, and are, IMO, a better shoe. As always, YMMV
Henry Holub
From Altus, Ok
Joined Nov 6, 2015
375 points
Dec 18, 2015
I'm accustomed to wearing very tight shoes for maximum performance (admittedly the Tarantulaces shouldn't be put in the "performance" category but let's just ignore that.). I wear a size 11 shoe in any street shoe brand and got the nines in the Tarantulaces, a size that almost always is correct for me in non-downturned climbing shoes. With the Tarantulaces I felt like I was wearing a tube sock stretched out by Fat Bastard. They aren't bad shoes (or great ones) but watch your sizing. Jack C.
From back of my truck, Utah current
Joined Mar 28, 2013
175 points
Dec 18, 2015
I will confidently say they were the worst shoe I ever owned. I bought them because they were cheap and thats what I got, a cheap climbing shoe. I bet you are considering them for the same reason. grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
0 points
Dec 18, 2015
I'll Echo Jack on Sizing. I downsized a full size from my street shoe size and should have gone down more. I think this is a La Sportiva thing, not just a tarantualce thing. Henry Holub
From Altus, Ok
Joined Nov 6, 2015
375 points
Dec 18, 2015
Instead of the tarantulace.. maybe try the jekyl vs. BigB
From Red Rock, NV
Joined Feb 18, 2015
0 points
Administrator
Dec 18, 2015
They fit my feet fairly well, but I'm not a fan of the rubber. I found it slipping on stuff that I could confidently trust with almost any other kind of rubber- C4, XS Grip, etc. I do have a pair that have been resoled with C4 and like them much better. They seem fairly durable- the laced version. If you do any kind of crack climbing, avoid the velcro version. The straps are cheap as hell and will wear through to the buckle rendering them useless in no time.

Generally speaking I'll echo what others have said- not a spectacular shoe. Comfort (assuming they fit your foot well) is probably their greatest attribute. Other than that, price. They do nothing performance wise exceptionally well.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
703 points
Administrator
Dec 18, 2015
Bought a pair, wore them twice. First time i thought it was just a bad day, second....bad shoes. Just don't buy them. I am a Sportiva fan, use tc pro, futura, solutions. Spend the $$ get the right shoe...the left one too. Muscrat
Joined Oct 27, 2011
3,040 points
Dec 18, 2015
I'll start of with the fact that I'm a newbie, just started climbing in July. The Taruntulace is what I got as my first (and so far only shoes) and I love them. I would agree that they're not performance, but I think they are a very good beginner shoe. They are comfortable, and they've worn very well for me (been to the gym at 1-3 times per week since I bought them and outdoors about 10 times in addition) and the soles are still in good shape. One of my partners that started climbing at the same time got a pair of Jokers as his first shoes, and between the two mine have proven to be far superior in terms of grip and ability to use small holds.

I'm to the point where I'm starting to look for a more performance shoe, but I plan on keeping these as gym shoe.
MikeOrth Orth
From Loveland, CO
Joined Nov 11, 2015
0 points
Dec 18, 2015
I have tarantula velcros. They're a great gym shoe for the money. They're also the first shoe where I can honestly say that I noticed a difference in performance of them. (That probably has more to say about how long I've been climbing though, not necessarily the shoes themselves...) They're definitely an entry model.

Beware any La Sportiva shoes that have Velcro, the durability isn't there. (I've had issue with the one Velcro shoe of theirs I own, and than have been told that it's a common problem)
Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Joined Feb 23, 2013
81 points
Dec 18, 2015
Horrible shoes. I bought a pair during a trip out to Yosemite when I injured my foot and needed a very comfortable pair of shoesto continue climbing. I almost died leading the first pitch of Snake Dyke when they would't stick to anything.


OK maybe a little exaggeration, I didn't almost die but I did start sliding and had to go full starfish on lead halfway through the first runout slab. They wouldn't stick to anything, it was like I had dress shoes on. The low end rubber on them is junk.
Brassmonkey
Joined Jan 19, 2012
0 points
Dec 19, 2015
I'm pretty sure the Tarantulace exists solely due to the fact that outdoor stores (REI, etc) sell them to beginners who don't know any better. There are tons of shoes in the same price range that are significantly better...I'd actually take a Red Chili bullshit over these. For about $100, you could pick up a pair of 5.10 Moccasyms that are miles beyond them. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
40 points
Dec 19, 2015
I've had them for a bit now. They've always been comfortable. The fit is great. They felt awesome for the first few weeks but lately I've noticed that they don't seem very grippy any more. I have definitely been climbing with a very insecure feeling about my stances. I thought maybe I needed to clean them or scuff them up. Maybe it was the certain polished cobbles I've been on. Or that the sandstone was a little dirty. Or this granite is greasy and worn out. Thanks for this thread, now I know what my problem is. What are the opinions on getting these resoled with better rubber? Is it worth it? I do like the fit.
Anyone want to trade?! Ha!
Joe Garibay
From Ventura, Ca
Joined Apr 26, 2014
30 points
Dec 19, 2015
Tarantulaces were my first shoe. I was just renting shoes when I went to the gym, and then heading outside it was cheaper and easier to just buy something rather than having to co-ordinate with store hours to rent and return.

They're cheap. They're comfortable. They don't grip worth a darn (I was always confused at how people could do what they did when I watched them smear). But they got the job done, and got me to a point where I'd both worn them out (lousy beginner footwork will destroy anything!) and was ready for something better.

The La Sportiva shoes just fit my feet well. After the tarantulace I switched to the Jeckyl (love them for the gym, but I can't wear them all day), Pythons (bad decision - they're great shoes, but not what I need) and now Mythos (great for outside, all day comfort).

I see folks climbing 5.12 in the gym in the tarantulaces which I find interesting. They're obviously cheap shoes, but even so they're not going to be the ONLY limiting factor in your climbing.


Even though they're cheap, crappy, beginner shoes, as a first shoe I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them if they fit you well. Having heard story after story of some over-enthusiastic climber guiding a newcomer into painful, too-tight shoes, these definitely do have their place. I think that having "good enough" for your first pair of shoes, and especially in having them feel comfortable and not painful, is more important than many other factors.


First pair? Go get 'em.
Second pair? Meh. Now you know better what you want, so spend the time and find it.


$0.02
DaveBaker
Joined Jan 5, 2015
8 points
Dec 19, 2015
I'm also a new climber 4-5 months now & These are my first and current pair of shoes (in the process of finding a more aggressive shoe).
I would definitely recommend these as starter shoes, they're comfortable as hell& can wear them all day without taking them off. But once u start wearing them a lot, the soles start to get slippery. So if your just starting out I would get these to work mainly on technique and balance & after u get a feel for rck climbing, I would adjust to more of an aggressive shoe.
Jackson Nguyen
From Doraville
Joined Dec 17, 2015
0 points
Dec 21, 2015
Even for a new climber why not just start with good rubber? The nagos are plenty comfy and come with xs edge. Nick Drake
From Newcastle, WA
Joined Jan 20, 2015
333 points
Dec 24, 2015
Friend is always slipping up the rock with his. T-rack
From Merced, CA
Joined Oct 29, 2015
0 points
Feb 7, 2016
Got them as my first pair of climbing shoes. They're comfy and better than tennis shoes but that's about all I can say. There'll be times when I fall off an edge or slip off a smear, or cant get my foot into a pocket, but I've never used better shoes so I don't know if it's bad technique or bad shoes. I can't compare them to anything since I've never used better or more aggressive shoes.

I can get on a pinky sized ledge with them and smear decently with the retail rubber. The toebox is also kinda big for me to where it's got some empty space in there but lengthwise the shoe is already feeling really tight.

But keep in mind I'm pretty new to this whole thing. People have said you can get Nagos on STP for 70. Throw in a 30% discount code and 1$ shipping and you're looking at 55 bucks for a better shoe.
Lardtazium
Joined Jan 31, 2016
0 points
Feb 7, 2016
Good entry level shoe. I got em on sale at REI for around $50. Climbed for the first 6 months of my climbing career with them. Upgraded shoes and sold em for $25 on eBay. They stretched a lot! Gene S
Joined Sep 17, 2015
0 points
Feb 8, 2016
I feel like I'm slipping when walking around at the base of climbs! Crap. But I do like the fit of the shoe. I'm considering getting them resoled with c4. Any reason not to do this? Joe Garibay
From Ventura, Ca
Joined Apr 26, 2014
30 points
Feb 8, 2016
JoeGaribay wrote:
I feel like I'm slipping when walking around at the base of climbs! Crap. But I do like the fit of the shoe. I'm considering getting them resoled with c4. Any reason not to do this?


I was at first tempted to reply that painting a turd doesn't change the fact that its a turd, but I would imagine those could be really comfortable and effective slab climbing shoes.
Henry Holub
From Altus, Ok
Joined Nov 6, 2015
375 points
Feb 8, 2016
JoeGaribay wrote:
I feel like I'm slipping when walking around at the base of climbs! Crap. But I do like the fit of the shoe. I'm considering getting them resoled with c4. Any reason not to do this?


Just get a pair of c4 shoes

And ask yourself what type of slab youll be doing

For frictiion slab softer and flatter is better

But once u need to stand on crystals and edge dime or less edges, a precise shoe is called for

;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
25 points
Feb 14, 2016
The rubber sorta sucks, so I had them resoled with Vibram XS Edge once they wore out a little.

I have size 13 or 14, and the laces are too short. Had to replace the stock laces with badass high speed aftermarket ones from some running shoes.

I use em at the gym or when doing whatever kinda stuff.
TacoDelRio
From All up in yo bidniss.
Joined Feb 16, 2010
2,325 points
Feb 21, 2016
I climbed 5.11c in the gym with the velcro version, great first shoe. that guy named seb
From Britland
Joined Oct 24, 2015
0 points
Feb 21, 2016
JoeGaribay wrote:
I feel like I'm slipping when walking around at the base of climbs! Crap. But I do like the fit of the shoe. I'm considering getting them resoled with c4. Any reason not to do this?


I agree, the worst part of the shoes are the rubber. I got mine resoled with XS edge and they're a bit better, but I still can't get past how round the toe is. I use them to warm up and on cracks (they're loose enough to wear socks under and pretty stiff) but I hate edging in them now.

That being said they were my first shoes and they didn't hold me back, it just made it a lot more annoying once I got nice tight shoes with a better shape.
Steve57
From Poulsbo, WA
Joined May 19, 2015
85 points


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