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Tarryall Tower
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Tarryall Tower Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA:  Kerry Gunter and Noah Bigwood
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Sep 22, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Tarryall Tower Crack.

INTRODUCTION 

This could be the most remote multi-pitch off-width of the Pikes Peak Granite.

I think Slim got the first ascent party correct. I climbed with Kerry on one of his excellent Four Mile Dome routes. Slim's comment reminds me that Kerry was one of the few climbers I ever met who new about this crack too.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tarryall Tower Crack, 5.11.
Tarryall Tower Crack, 5.11.

Location 

This is on the southeast side of the tower. A direct approach is too rough. Hike through the notch, and then pass under the west face routes until you see the amazing off-width.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning sun, Sept. 24.
Morning sun, Sept. 24.

Protection 

See Slim's comment below....


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By slim
Administrator
Sep 22, 2014

I think (am pretty sure actually) Kerry Gunter and Noah Bigwood climbed this in the late '80s or early '90s. Maybe in the 11 range (?). Kerry was trying to talk me into doing it, but I know better. ;)

IIRC he said #4 Camalots on the first pitch and tough underclinging at the top.
By WMcD
Nov 21, 2014

Whoa! Cool to see more photos of this thing. There is tattered and faded topo in the summit register. It's mostly illegible, but I could tell that all these (very impressive) routes had been done. I wish I had a picture of it.

Modern rappel station off the back.

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