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Tarantula Ledge
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Tarantula T,TR 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Kurtz on Nov 15, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Tarantula


Scramble up the slope to the start of the corner. Sling a tree and/or place a 3"-5" cam in the crack. Up you go. Route finding is a non-issue.

The route is covered in gray lichen. Bring a stiff brush if you don't lich it.


The large 3 foot right-facing corner that bisects the slab.

Rapp off the quick links on the fixed metal cable. A 60m rope gets you down with a little to spare.


Cams and larger nuts. There is a 3/8" metal cable anchor (with quick links) at the top that you can use for TR or rappelling.

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By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jan 27, 2015

Back sometime in the 1990's Ken Nichols told me about "another wall" at St John's that had a 5.8 "crack / corner" in it. His hiking directions were less than precise, but it would seem that "This is the Place!".

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