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1.1 - Old Sandstone
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Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
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Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
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Everleigh Club Crack T 
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Girls Named Sue T 
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Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
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One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,698
Submitted By: Kayte Knower on Aug 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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James on Tarantula. Awesome send!


Tarantula offers a left hand start into the same crack system as Gargantua. This route makes a great onsight proposition with nice rests and plenty of protection. The overhanging start throws the hardest moves soon off the ground, and the pumpy hand traverse that leads into the obvious crack is just as exciting. The thin crack above is as fun as it looks, but keep your shoes race-laced for the top out.


The lower crux is well protected by small wires and TCU's. Save a couple hand sized cams for the horizontal below the upper crux. Long slings at the bottom of the route and through the traverse make all the difference on the top out. The route is wonderfully protected.

Photos of Tarantula Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux?
the crux?
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric
Rock Climbing Photo: Power move
Power move
Rock Climbing Photo: Pausing to look for gear
Pausing to look for gear
Rock Climbing Photo: Burt and Eric
Burt and Eric
Rock Climbing Photo: Ooh, very aesthetic. Tarantula, 5.10b.
Ooh, very aesthetic. Tarantula, 5.10b.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh in the upper crack of Tarantula.
Josh in the upper crack of Tarantula.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tarantula starts on the left crack system where th...
BETA PHOTO: Tarantula starts on the left crack system where th...

Comments on Tarantula Add Comment
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From: Winona
Sep 2, 2005

One of the better 1o leads at the lake.
By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Oct 31, 2005

A fun free climb, and also a very nice route to practice your clean aid on.
By Marty Combs
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great 5.10 b lead. I found this climb to be true to its rating, which is uncharacteristic for Devil's lake (Most routes seem to be sand-bagged). The 5.10 section is very fun and overhanging, but not sustained and it protects decently. After the initial moves of 5.10, the rest is a sustained 5.8 hand crack. The 5.10 section protects nicely with a Red #1 BD Camelot and then a green .75 Camelot. Watch out for rope drag.

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