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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lisa McKee
Page Views: 6,171
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (129)
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BETA PHOTO: Climber headed for rest stop #2 on Tarantella (5.1...


Climb the left face of the corner (sometimes wet) and clip the first bolt while hanging from a ledge. Clamber up onto the ledge for a nice rest, and clip the second bolt. Now reach down and unclip the first bolt to avoid rope drag later down the road. Wander up the right face of the corner, past another lovely rest ledge on the arete, to anchors near the top.


One of the first climbs you encounter when walking in. Starts in a left-facing corner.


9 bolts, anchors

Photos of Tarantella Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lots of fun
Lots of fun
Rock Climbing Photo: Tarantela at obed
Tarantela at obed
Rock Climbing Photo: Tarantella
BETA PHOTO: Tarantella
Rock Climbing Photo: at the anchors.
at the anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Im a trad fan but this is one of my favorite route...
Im a trad fan but this is one of my favorite route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping stance for bolt numero uno! Not too hard ...
BETA PHOTO: Clipping stance for bolt numero uno! Not too hard ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is one seriously awesome 5.10! Copyright Denn...
This is one seriously awesome 5.10! Copyright Denn...

Comments on Tarantella Add Comment
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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is an outstanding lead, one of the highlights of my latest Obed trip. Fairly sustained, but there are good rests along the way. The moves off the first rest ledge skirting the roof felt like the crux of the climb for me.

Stick clipping is not a bad idea, but you'll need a pretty long pole.
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Oct 15, 2012

Just a heads up, there's a mistake in the guide book where this route and the .12a beside it can easily be confused, although it won't take long to realize you're not on a .10a.
By Rachael429
From: Chattanooga, TN
Oct 23, 2012

This is an awesome lead!
By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013

Definitely watch out for that mixup in that shiny new guidebook, especially since that 12a next door has a high first bolt with a difficult section up to me I fell off it completely baffled by the difficulty of these "10a" moves. Further inspection of the photographs in the guidebook revealed the problem. Fun route, once you're on it...
By Austin Eddy
From: Knoxville, TN
Feb 23, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

According to the guidebook, the route that everyone is doing is Alien. Is that a mistake in the book? Is there a route where Tarantella is shown in the guidebook? What is it rated?
By khowe
From: Knoxville, TN
May 19, 2014

Yes, I think there is a mistake in the picture of the Obed guidebook. It seems that route #4 pictured in the guidebook is Tarantella, not Alien. The photos on MP seem to show the correct route line of Tarantella.
By Cassi Haggard
Nov 11, 2014

I'm very grateful I checked here before heading to the Obed. I was told this was a must-do 10a and we wouldn't have known the guidebook was wrong without this page. Probably the most fun 10a I've lead with really interesting movement.
By Nick Brennan
From: Concord, NH
Mar 10, 2016

I climbed the start to the 12a with an extended runner on the first bolt, traversed to the second bolt on the 10a, clipped an extended runner to it, and then leaned over to backclean the draw I had stick-clipped. I'd recommend this start because it avoids the chossy, mossy 10a start.

Watch out for the guide book -- its wrong and could sucker you into a real mission!
By Nick Brennan
From: Concord, NH
Mar 11, 2016

Also, the right bolt at the anchor is loose in its hole. Although recently replaced, the bolt shaft and hanger both move when weighted/ unweighted.
By Micah McCrotty
From: Knoxville
Nov 6, 2016

This can be climbed as a gear route. Excellent horizontals throughout with a small runout in the middle, but well protected otherwise.

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