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Taos Area

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Comales Canyon 
Dead Cholla Wall 
Horsethief Shorty 
John Dunn Bridge Area 
Miner's Crag 
Pilar Area Bouldering  
Pot Creek Highball 
Probe 1 
Questa Dome 
Red River Area 
Tres Piedras 
Utopian Vistas 
Vista Verde Crag 
Wild and Scenic 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

SBT: Heaven on Earth
A fast, flowy out and back ride from Garcia Park along sections of the South Boundary Trail Near Taos, New Mexico
Rift Valley Trail
This is a beginner trail that is also a lot of fun for advanced riders. Near Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico
Lady Slipper
An awesome in-town short ride that is made up of proper singletrack. Near Angel Fire, New Mexico
South Boundary Trail #164
This classic little-bit-of-everything sub-alpine forest ridge ride is consistently ranked among the best in New Mexico. Near Taos, New Mexico
Ojitos Trail #166
An alternate ending to the South Boundary Trail that avoids the rocky El Nogal section. Near Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico
Angel's Plunge
A 2.8-mile downhill trail with a backcountry feel offering unique views of Moreno Valley. Near Angel Fire, New Mexico
From MP's sister site:

Taos Area Rock Climbing 

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Location: 36.4059, -105.574 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jfoley on Oct 4, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Bat Cave finish. Photography

Town of Taos and Surrounding Area 

Taos, "the Place of the Red Willow" in the native Tiwa of the Pueblo Indians, has long been the rendezvous of the Southern Sangre de Cristo Mountains and of the various cultures that call this region home. The Spanish referred to it as "Remote Beyond Compare" and it is for that reason it has remained to this day, unspoiled. Artists since have gathered at the foot of the Sangre De Cristo to take advantage of the high desert light and how it plays along the peaks and down into the Rio Grande Rift valley. The Taos Society of Artists, as well as Georgia O'Keefe, Ansel Adams, Paul Strand, and Dorthea Lange had an affection for the "Taos Light" and the extraordinary diversity of landforms and cultures in northern New Mexico.

Taosenos enjoy a diverse topography spanning from the basalt crags of the Rio Grande Gorge (John Dunn Bridge Area, Dead Cholla Wall, Miner's Crag, Utopian Vistas, Vista Verde Crag, Wild and Scenic, from about 5500 to 7000 ft) to the pristine granite of Tres Piedras or Questa Dome, the metamorphic rocks of Comales Canyon (up to 10,000 ft.) and the cobble conglomerate of El Rito all within a reasonable drive from one of the oldest continually inhabited communities in the U.S. Bring your sense of adventure and independence (as well as your rack, rod, boat, bike and skis/board) and get lost in the expanse. Gradual development and expansion of local crags has added a variety of new sport and trad pitches in the area surrounding Taos.

The geology of the Rio Grande Box is largely volcanic. Olivine tholeiite basalt forms the three main layers of the Servilleta Basalt. The middle basalt unit is separated from the upper and lower tiers by layers of sediment forming the benches. These horizontal basalt layers of dark-gray, pahoehoe (ropey), vesicular (air pocketed) lava compose the main climbing walls in the gorge (Vista Verde, Utopian Vistas, Dead Cholla, John Dunn area, Horse Thief, etc.). The rock we climb in the upper Box area of the Wild and Scenic is more dense, can be red to light brown and was not from the lateral Servilleta flow. These remnants of volcanic plugs are more appropriately termed dacite, and it may contain crystal inclusions known as phenocrysts. The middle box or La Junta section has several examples of swirled volcanic rock from old low relief dacite volcanos. Miners' crag is a nice example. The wall across from Miners' is also a remnant.

Season: Year-round. Hit the sunny, sheltered Rio Grande Gorge on winter mornings (most cliffs face east) or on afternoons in the warmer months. In high summer, find cooler temps at Tres Piedras, Questa Dome, El Rito, and Comales Canyon

Disclaimer: As Lew Wallace once said: "Every calculation based on experience elsewhere, fails in New Mexico", and that may be doubly true for Taos. (Therefore climbing is dangerous, BETA is just that, use your own judgment, blah, blah ...). Oh, and if you are wondering, "Taos" rhymes with "house".

Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Foley working "Letting Go" 12c in th...
Jay Foley working "Letting Go" 12c in the Bat Cave, Vista Verde near Taos

Photo: Jay Foley working "Letting Go" in the Bat Cave. Photo by Bob D'Antonio

Local Climbing Resources 

Guide Service - Mountain Skills
Shops- Mudd N Flood 134 Bent Street Taos, NM 87571 (505)751-9100
Guidebook: Taos Rock: Climbs and Boulders of Northern New Mexico. Author:Jay Foley Publisher: Sharp End Publishing, 2005
and/or Rock Climbing New Mexico (Regional Rock Climbing Series) by Dennis Jackson

Climbing Magazine Article:UTOPIAN VISTAS
By Matt Samet from Climbing Magazine No. 278 - September 2009
Photos by Andrew Burr /

Cycling Resources

Gearing Up Bicycle Shop
Taos Cyclery
Recommended MTB Rides
South Boundry Trail

Hospital/Medical Care

Holy Cross Hospital

Holy Cross Hospital
1397 Weimer Road
Taos, New Mexico 87571
Phone: 575-758-8883

South of Town. Turn East on Canon Bypass (look for Chevron at corner of Paseo Del Pueblo and Canon Bypass). About 1/2 mile to 2nd round-about for Weimer Road turn Right (South) to Hospital (Approx 1 mile)

Taos Search and Rescue

High Angle Unit: contact 911 and ask for State Police to dispatch TSAR (Directo: Richard McCracken of the Direct Northwest Face on Half Dome, 5.10 A3+ VI 5.13c/d. FA 1963 with Royal Robbins. 1963 Robbins Route, Mount Proboscis, Logan Mountains, NWT, Canada with Jim McCarthy, Layton Kor and Royal Robbins. 1964 North Face Mount Hooker, Wind River Range, Wyoming, USA. With Royal Robbins and Charlie Raymond)

Eats: The World Cup Cafe, on the Taos Plaza, has the best espresso in town. In Arroyo Seco, the Taos Cow is the place for java, lunchables, and ice cream. For muy delicioso New Mexican fare, Orlando’s, in north Taos, serves some of the state’s best chile (say, “Go Christmas,” when ordering, for half-green and half-red). Willing to spend a little more? Check out The Love Apple, built in an old, chapel just east of Taos and serving fresh, locally grown, mouthwatering meals (try the quesadilla with egg). Doc Martin's in the Taos Inn is a must for breakfast or dinner. Ask Bob D'antonio for his recommendations for a meal or climb, he manages the place.

Camping: Most crags have camping on National Forest and BLM land. Particularly primo are the improved Orilla Verde Recreation Area campgrounds, right along the Rio Grande —$7 per night,, (575) 751-4899. Hot showers and check with the camp host if you can use the hottub.

Lodging: Why rough it when you can stay in a lux adobe? Donna Longo, Jay Foley’s wife, rents two vacation homes in Arroyo Seco: Casa Seco and Casita Seco, both on an acre of pasture overlooking the Taos Valley. Prices vary according to season and number of people —, (575) 776-2222. Or enjoy the mountain air below El Salto peak at The iconic Abominable Snowmansion, in Arroyo Seco, offers private and dormitory-style rooms, teepees, and camping —, (575) 776-8298.

Rest-Day Activities: World-class fly fishing on the Cimarron and Rio Grande, as well as kayaking and rafting on class 2 to 5 rapids; marinate in mineral water at Ojo Caliente hot springs, about an hour southeast Taos; unwind with massage or yoga (Foley recommends, [575] 776-8075); hike or bike the myriad mountain trails; ski Taos Ski Valley; go fly fishing, or visit Taos Pueblo, home to about 150 Taos Indians. First built more than 1,000 years ago, this World Heritage Site is the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States —, (575) 758-1028.

Rock Climbing Photo: View from south on Rift Valley MTB trail.  Vista V...
View from south on Rift Valley MTB trail. Vista Verde, Dead Cholla and Utopian Vistas along dirt road climbing west side of gorge from the Taos Junction Bridge.

Getting to Taos 

From Albuquerque: I-25 to Santa Fe; exit on 599 north to by-pass Santa Fe; Hwy. 285 to Hwy. 68 to Taos.
From Arizona: I-40 WEST to Albuquerque; I-25 to Santa Fe; Hwy. 285 to Hwy. 68 to Taos.
From Denver: I-25 to Colorado Springs to Walsenburg; Hwy. 160 to Fort Garland; Hwy. 159 and Hwy. 522 to Taos.
From Texas: I-40 EAST to Albuquerque; I-25 to Santa Fe; Hwy. 285 to Hwy. 68 to Taos.

Driving Distances / Approximate Times to Taos

Albuquerque 135 mi. / 2:15
Amarillo 302 mi / 5:00
Dallas 682 mi / 11:00
Denver 300 mi / 5:00
Durango 208 mi / 3:30
Phoenix 568 mi / 8:30
Santa Fe 72 mi / 1:15

Ernest Blumensheim, founder of the Taos Society of Artists documented his own love of the topography

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

521 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',212],['2 Stars',183],['1 Star',89],['Bomb',4]

Classic Climbing Routes in Taos Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Taos Area:
Dirty Diagonal   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Chicken Heads   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Chicken Shit   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8)   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 310'   Questa Dome : The Legs
Mama Jugs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Serpentine Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Yikes Dikes   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   Tres Piedras : South Rock
Roadside Construction   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 80'   Red River Area : Roadside Distraction
Clean Green Dream   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 140'   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Alien   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   Tres Piedras : West Rock
Tijerina   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall
Gila Monster   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Tres Piedras : Aspen Alley
Jam Time   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Dead Cholla Wall
Serpent Face   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Fire Walker   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Question of Balance   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Questa Dome : Questa Dome
Obamanos!   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall
Burnt   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Techweenie   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 75'   Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Family Man   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Taos Area

Featured Route For Taos Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Well above the first set of anchors and heading in...

Roadside Distraction 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  New Mexico : Taos Area : ... : Roadside Distraction
The longest, cleanest route at the area. Start up in the small corner up the smooth, water polished face to the high first bolt. I presume one could go straight up the face avoiding the corner but it would be much more difficult and unprotected. A few more thin moves take you up past a couple more bolts and then into positive, fun climbing up to the roof. Pull the roof using big holds and climb past a couple more bolts to an anchor. Lower from here if your rope is 60m or less and you want to TR...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Taos Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Remy Franklin Chasing the sun in Taos, Christmas w...
Remy Franklin Chasing the sun in Taos, Christmas w...
Rock Climbing Photo: cowboy art
cowboy art
Rock Climbing Photo: TAOS. FoleyPhoto
TAOS. FoleyPhoto
Rock Climbing Photo: Taos Pueblo  Photo courtesy of All...
Taos Pueblo Photo courtesy of All...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Burr Photography
Andrew Burr Photography

Comments on Taos Area Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 20, 2017
By Kurt Burt
Jun 27, 2009
Just spent a week out in the Taos area and had a blast. What a great variety of rock and style of climbs. Jay took me on a great tour of the area and enjoyed everything from Comales, to TP, the trad at El Rito (Jay was sick, good jerky huh Jay?) and the great Wild and Scenic. Climbing here was very surreal and I want to give an applause to all the guys doing great work developing the crags, and making it a great area to climb in. Jays book is pretty close to right on, I have never been to the area before and drove right to the El Rito trad area solo with no problems as well as finding routes and trails. Taos has a great local scene, great food, wonderful places to stay, and just a atmosphere that will inspire you to look around not just up or down.
By Jfoley
Jun 27, 2009
Thanks for coming out Kurt Burt.I had a blast. See you in Red rocks
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 18, 2009
The Taos-area article from last month's climbing magazine (plus perhaps some bonus material) is online at Good stuff Mike Howard, tim naylor, Jay Foley and others.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 2, 2010
JMo, Foley's 2005 book is the most up-to-date publication. I think the biggest and best Taos-area to be developed since Foley's 2005 book is Utopian Vistas. Utopian is not in any books so you'd be wise to print out a mini-guide from MP here. Miner's Crag has also seen a huge amount of development since Foley's book came out and again is best documented here on MP. The El Rito Sport Area has seen a number of new lines put in in the past few years and the online PDF from the Los Alamos Mountaineers website is the best updated source for that area.

I'm sure a more local Taos person can fill in blanks I have left here...
By Tradiban
May 18, 2011
Hello, we are escaping some weather in Boulder for the next few days and thought we would come down to Taos. We are looking for someone willing to give a tour (paid in beers) and or some suggestions. I prefer trad but sport's cool and I either need a climber partner or a place with bolted anchors so I can clean my own pitch (my travel partner can climb 5.6 at best but is willing to belay whatever).
If you are able to show us around PM me, thanks!
By Michael Roadie
Sep 13, 2011
Hello, I will be visiting Taos this weekend the 16th - 18th. I am looking for someone to climb with hopefully on Sunday the 18th. I am an intermediate sport climber with all the gear.

By Justin Whitell
From: California
Jan 11, 2012
FOUND- A quickdraw at utopian vistas 1/11/12 contact me if you lost one there.
By Haj
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 29, 2013
I was wondering if there is any info out there about climbing in the Rio Hondo valley on the way up to the Taos Ski Valley?

Thanks ... Haj
By Amy143
From: Red River, NM
Oct 27, 2014
Just moved from Arroyo Seco to Red River, know the Taos County area pretty well and recently purchased Jay Foley's climb/boulder guide. Psyched to get out and play on some rocks but in need of a climbing partner (with gear). Mainly sport, can climb 5.9 at best. I have personal gear (atc, harness, shoes, helmet) 60m rope, and some webbing, but I do not have my own quickdraws.
By tim naylor
Mar 17, 2016
yeah george, you got us over the 500 mark!
By Trevor H
From: Taos, NM
Nov 6, 2016
I'm new to town, and am search of a partner to get out and climb. I have all gear, so if you are just proficient at belaying, or are a seasoned climber, I would be stoked to meet you.
By Orellana
From: Taos, NM
Dec 17, 2016
Hi my name is Caity. I'm new to the Taos area and looking for people to climb with this winter. Would love to boulder, sport, or trad climb! All my climbing info should be in my profile. Hope to meet some new folks!
By Zane Winter
From: Kansas City, MO
May 20, 2017
My wife and I are planning a trip to Taos in August; we're looking for some crags that can suit both our tastes. We both climb sport, I'm most comfortable in the 5.11/+ range, and she's looking for .10- and under climbing. We don't have any trad experience. Any advice? PM me!

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