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The Dungeon
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5000 Candles in the Wind T 
Backdoor Man S 
Branching Out S 
Executioner, The T 
If and Only If S 
Implements of Destruction S 
New Beginnings  T 
Number of the Beast, The S 
Rat Dance T 
Ride Around the Block T 
Soaked in Sin T 
Tanuki T 
Two in the Pink T 
Uncertainty Principle , The T 
Unshackled S 
Zed's Dead T 

Tanuki 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Cody Scarpella, Dave Montgomery, 9/13
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/ Summer/ Fall
Page Views: 1,121
Submitted By: Monty on Oct 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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In the crux on Tanuki vying for the 2nd ascent.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was one of the initial routes in The Dungeon that caught my eye. It took a lot of effort between Cody and I to unlock the climbing on this line. Much like Tanuki, the route doesn't look like much, but his magical shape shifting unlocks amazing movement.

This route tackles the steep angling crack system in the middle of The Dungeon. Steep and sustained is the name of the game. Big moves through jugs and locks leads you past a bolt and to a shake in the middle of the route. Rest up and embark on a 25 foot long crux sequence of thin hands, finger locks, deadpoints, and knee bars. Respect Tanuki's golden balls.

Protection 

2 bolts, rack from green alien - #1. Lower off from a two bolt anchor.
A kneebar pad on the left knee can be helpful.

Location 

Smack dab in the middle of the steepest part of the dungeon, this is just left of If and only If.


Photos of Tanuki Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Respect Tanuki's balls.
Respect Tanuki's balls.

Comments on Tanuki Add Comment
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By Monty
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Jun 29, 2017

It's possible to get a TR on this route with some minor shenanigans after climbing the Backdoor Man. I forgot how painful some of the jams are on this thing!

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