||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Original: || YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c R [details]|
|FA: ||Cody Scarpella, Dave Montgomery, 9/13|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring/ Summer/ Fall|
|Page Views: ||935|
|Submitted By: ||Monty on Oct 4, 2013|
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In the crux on Tanuki vying for the 2nd ascent.
This was one of the initial routes in The Dungeon that caught my eye, but it took the combined effort between Cody and I to see the awesomeness of this line. Much like Tanuki, the route doesn't look like much, but his magical shape shifting unlocks amazing movement.
This route tackles the steep angling crack system in the middle of The Dungeon. Steep and sustained is the name of the game here. Big moves through jugs and locks leads you to a shake in the middle of the route. Rest up and embark on a 25 foot long crux sequence of thin hands, finger locks, deadpoints, and knee bars. Respect Tanuki's golden balls.
Smack dab in the middle of the steepest part of the dungeon, this is just left of Zed's Dead
Bring red c3 - #1. Lower off a fixed nut anchor.
A kneebar pad can be helpful