|Type:||Trad, Sport, Aid, 8 pitches, 600', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C0 [details]|
|FA:||Peter Croft, Craig Thomson 1982|
|Submitted By:||Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006|
|Comments on Tantalus Wall||Add Comment|
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By Chris Elliott
May 3, 2016
We took a BD #4, #5 and #6 for this climb along with the standard doubles and extras in finger sizes. A #6 should almost definitely be included in the rack for this climb. You could probably leave the #4 at home and bring 2 x #5s and maybe 2x #6s.
The whole route is a burly number (possibly a sandbag) featuring razor-thin pinscars for your fingers (possibly good locks available for small-fingered ladies). Don't go up there expecting .11c Crime of the Century finger locks unless you know how to aid efficiently with slings lol.
Also, the crux of the .11b corner pitch below the headwall involves some difficult off width action which you probably won't hear about otherwise. Hence having an arsenal of #5s and #6s for the second to carry when not needed.