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Tanners Gulch

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Tanners Gulch Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.57744, -111.7029 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,426
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Jun 26, 2007

64° | 43°

51° | 30°

42° | 31°

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47° | 34°
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What the gulch used to look like before the summer...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Tanners Gulch had one route published in 1996 when the Ruckman guidebook was released. Today it holds enough routes to keep one busy for a season. The rock is broken and dirty in some places, other places the rock is absolutely killer.

The gulch runs north/south. The majority of the routes face East so morning sun is sure bet. There is one wall that faces West so chasing sun is an option. However the gulch goes into the shadows around 3pm in the summer and 2pm in the fall.

In the Winter and Spring months avalanche hazard may be an issue. The gulch is fed by the massive upper headwall in Tanners, only go if the snowpack is stable, not much running room in that gulch if it were to avalanche.

Once you get up into the guts of the gulch footing becomes loose and the talus unstable in places, watch your step. In the melting months we have heard and seen rocks whizzing and flying by, this place is about as alpine one can get this close to the LCC road.

The views are unbeatable up here. You have the mighty Pfeifferhorn, Red Stack, White/Red Baldy peaks to the south. And the sounds of traffic are dim.

While climbing in the area we ran across 2 pieces of webbing, the only sign of climbers. One was found on the Phillip Drummond Ledge on the route Diff'rent Strokes, the other was found on the Hidden Heavenly Slab around the pine tree in the left corner. Both appeared to be left from routes that follow big broken corner systems, but if you have any info please share it!

Getting There 

Drive up Little Cottonwood Canyon (HWY 210). Follow the signage to Tanners Campground, once you get to the campground go another 100 yards up the road and park on the large shoulder before the bend (east side of road). Across the HWY at the bend is a UDOT sign indicating Tanners Slide Path, walk behind this sign, there is a trail here. Follow the trail (faint in some spots) to the drainage, drop down in and walk up the gulch. There seems to be a better trail on the West side of the stream.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

49 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Tanners Gulch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Tanners Gulch:
Under Pressure   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Booty Wall Area
Ornery Miss Garrett   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 117'   Diff'rent Strokes Buttress
Golden Plates   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Hidden Heavenly Slab
All About Volume   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 280'   Hidden Heavenly Slab
36 Yarrgs   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Booty Wall Area
Minions of Chaos   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Minions of Chaos Area
The 7th Way   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 430'   Hidden Heavenly Slab
Pirate Treasure   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 85'   Booty Wall Area
Apparition   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Specter Wall
Specter   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Specter Wall
White Lines   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Booty Wall Area
Heisenberg   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Booty Wall Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Tanners Gulch

Featured Route For Tanners Gulch
Rock Climbing Photo: This thing has a cool crux!

Pirate Treasure 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Booty Wall Area
"Professor, what's another name for Pirate Treasure?" "well I think it's Booooooty-B-B-booooottttty yep thats what it is" "Cause I'm the master blasterDrinking up the shastaMy voice sounds sweet 'cause it has to" -Beastie BoysThis route starts on some rust colored streaks. The 2nd bolt can seem high, just remember those jugs are good! Keep you footwork together and sequence to make the slipmer moves to a rest. Shuffle along the shelf going left, at the end are some wild scul...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Tanners Gulch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down after all hell broke loose.  Nothing ...
Looking down after all hell broke loose. Nothing ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Tanners
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Tanners
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up before all hell breaks loose
looking up before all hell breaks loose

Comments on Tanners Gulch Add Comment
Show which comments
By zoso
Aug 22, 2012
The routes here are pretty incredible. Many do have goofy 1st pitches, but not all. Once you get past the 1st 50' or so, the rock is almost always perfect. Additionally, the climbs are very unique for the canyon; angular holds with slabs and roofs and interesting moves. And you can't beat the setting. Approach is quick @ 15-20 minutes for all but the lazy. Great Summer crag as it stays cool most of the time, sun or shade.

But don't tell anyone.
By Pete Wilk
Aug 10, 2014
The sun deck boulder isn't quite as obvious as it once must have been. Natural shifting of boulders through erosion/avalanche etc, has deposited a number of microwave sized blocks on top, making it less "decky". It still is the first large boulder you come across as the gulch starts to close in from the approach trail--west side of the stream.
By TylerPhillips
Aug 14, 2014
That isn't from erosion or snow avalanche. A massive part of the gully released 2 summers ago. Tanners is very alive and active.

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