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d. Tango Wall
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Cohen and Stu Bartram (1964)
Page Views: 1,508
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008

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Frank sets up for the Tango Traverse.


P1 - Climb the left-facing corner to a small shelf below the huge overhang and some fixed pitons (shifting rock, potential rockfall hazard).
Traverse left along the shelf until you can pull into the left-facing corner above (crux, harder if short). Continue up and right to a belay ledge.

P2 - Climb straight up the steep left-facing corner to the ceiling. Clip the bolt, then surmount the ceiling on the right and up to the top.


At a large, left-facing corner beneath a large overhang.


Standard rack. Note that shifting rock on the overhang poses potential danger for this route.

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By Paul Shultz
From: Hudson, Ma
Feb 28, 2009

Pitch one is alright. According to Falcon NJ guidebook, PG rated. PG13 is much more accurate. First pitch uses small cams and nuts. The last 3 pieces I used to the belay ledge were fixed pins. Lack of friction is a pain on this climb in several spots. definitely harder if short, or short legged. Belay ledge used a fixed pin, 2 aliens and a #4 stopper. 2nd pitch is dirty and with a marginal belay anchor, didn't feel like pushing my luck and opted to bail off.