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04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buffy T 
Bugaboo T 
Charlotte's Crack T 
Clamdigger Crack T 
Continental Cracks T 
Desperado T,S 
Equinox T 
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 
Good Omens T 
Harmonic Convergence T 
Heathrow - Ice Climb 
Hotel California T 
Joe's Route - Ice Climb 
Obscure Object of Desire S 
Old Spice T 
Old Stud S 
Pandora T,S 
Poison Ivy T 
Queen Charlotte T 
Slow Children (mid-cliff START)  T 
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 
White Streak T 
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 

Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 42
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on Sep 27, 2016

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Description 

Pull up out of the right side of the alcove onto a short slab, then step back left to a crack system. Follow the crack until it fades out, then step left to a short section of thin face climbing (5.8, bolt) that leads to a good ledge. Pull up a steep right-facing corner (crux) onto the headwall, then straight up to the top.

Location 

About halfway up Joe's Route are two triangular, left-leaning chimneys. This route starts in a grassy alcove with a horizontal crack, at the base of the right chimney. Rappel twice with one rope, using a bolted intermediate anchor to climber's left.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3" (4" optional), emphasizing small cams. Gear belay at the start (multiple 1" works best); bolted top anchor.


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