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Tangerine Dream 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 265'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA:  Rob Settlemire, Gary Adams
Page Views: 905
Submitted By: Muscrat on Jun 18, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The full 265' route, foreshortened.

Description 

Might be the best moderate on the Belly. Great pro, perfect cracks from fingers to off-fist and big exposure make this a classic line.
P1) 65' Look for a large detached blocky flake sitting 15' from the ground on a sloping ledge. Climb the left facing corner passing above the flake, to a right traverse under a knobby bulge, up a short crack to a very large comfortable ledge where you will find anchors on the far left.
P2) 60' Wonderful pitch gets right to it. Leave the ledge on the far left which starts out thin hands and quickly gets off fist. Gear anchor.
P3) A short thin finger crack leads up and to the right to the bolted belay on a huge ledge.
P4) The Dream pitch. Go straight up the deceivingly steep hand to off fist crack to bolted anchors. Awesome!

Location 

Stand back and look for the detached block/flake. Starts left and passes the block. A 70m rope just makes the rap from P3 to P1.

Protection 

Double rack .3 to 3", 1-4". Offset nuts work well. Slings a must.


Photos of Tangerine Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P4
P4

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By Muscrat
Administrator
Jun 18, 2015

This really is worth the hike, a sweet line. 5.9+? I don't know, you want to be a confident 10 climber for this, and bring your wide brain. Pitch 4 i had to backclean #3 and #4.
BETA ALERT!! IF YOU DON'T WANT TO KNOW READ NO FURTHER:!!
Look for the thin crack about 2/3 of the way up P4 on the left hand side. Takes .5-.75, saves your wide gear for above. A #4 gets tipped out towards the top, certainly wider than my fist. Tape gloves a must, there's some sharp in there.
By Muscrat
Administrator
Jun 18, 2015

You can combine P2 & 3 into one great pitch, just watch rope drag.
By fforcella
From: Redding, CA
Jun 29, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We combined P2 & 3 without running into any rope drag (we were using doubles so that may have helped). P4 was burly but really fun. There were some dirty sections but the cracks were pretty clean overall. Awesome route!

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