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Heart Wall
Routes Sorted
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Blaek Jai (Wondering) S 
Coo Jai (Twin Heart) S 
Dee Jai Ti Dai Geud (It's Great to be Alive) S 
Dok Jai (Surprised) S 
Dtang Jai (Determined) S 
Dtatsin Jai (Decide) S 
Duang Jai (Flame Heart) S 
Gam Lang Jai (Spirit, Morale)  S 
Hua Jai Wai (Heart Attack) S 
Jai Glah Reu Blao (Are You Courageous) S 
Jai rawn (Hot Headed) S 
Jai Yen Yen (Patience) S 
Kra Ten Kong Hua Jai (Heartbeat)  S 
Mun Jai (Confident) S 
Pak Jai (Rest) S 
Peuan Jai Lai (My Friend is Mean) S 
Prathup Jai (Impressed) S 
Ruam Jai (Community) S 
Sat Jai (Satisfied) S 
Suu Sud Jai (Put your heart into it)  S 
Tang Jai (Intentions) S 

Tang Jai (Intentions) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Danny Paradorn on Jun 21, 2016

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Can start at bottom of boulder and clip the 3 glue-in hangars, or scramble up the left side of boulder and start at the 4th bolt.

Continue up ample holds and nice movement to some small jail bars (there are sometimes wax bees here, but they are very tiny and do not sting or bother you; if you see bigger bees/wasps (occassionally), avoid.)

Follow slightly rightward bolts up to wide off-width crack with juggy laybacks. Last couple of meters above crack leaves less selection of hand holds to gain anchors.

This is a good warm up route with great movement.

Location 

On the far far left side of Heart Wall (20-25m past the downclimbing of the ledge with the knotted assist-rope hanging down).

You will see a belay anchor at the bottom of a big boulder with 3 glue-ins (and one glue-in on the left side of boulder for a different climb).

Look up, if you see a big off-width crack 3/4 of the way up, you're at the right place :)

Protection 

15 bolts. If you don't have enough draws, can scramble up the left side of boulder and clip from the 4th bolt, standing ledge.


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