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Tang Jai (Intentions) S 

Tang Jai (Intentions) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Danny Paradorn on Jun 21, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


Can start at bottom of boulder and clip the 3 glue-in hangars, or scramble up the left side of boulder and start at the 4th bolt.

Continue up ample holds and nice movement to some small jail bars (there are sometimes wax bees here, but they are very tiny and do not sting or bother you; if you see bigger bees/wasps (occassionally), avoid.)

Follow slightly rightward bolts up to wide off-width crack with juggy laybacks. Last couple of meters above crack leaves less selection of hand holds to gain anchors.

This is a good warm up route with great movement.


On the far far left side of Heart Wall (20-25m past the downclimbing of the ledge with the knotted assist-rope hanging down).

You will see a belay anchor at the bottom of a big boulder with 3 glue-ins (and one glue-in on the left side of boulder for a different climb).

Look up, if you see a big off-width crack 3/4 of the way up, you're at the right place :)


15 bolts. If you don't have enough draws, can scramble up the left side of boulder and clip from the 4th bolt, standing ledge.

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