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Whitney Portal Buttress
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Beckey-Callis T 
Gangway T 
Ghostrider T,S 
Mean Streak T 
Nimbus T 
No Country For Old Men T 
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") T 
Trivial Pursuit T 

Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary, 1978
Season: March-October
Page Views: 6,748
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Nick attempting the onsight of Tanager (5.10b), at...

Portal Road Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is the right-leaning crack that is labeled "5.11 crack" in the Ghostrider topo posted on the Ghostrider page. I am not sure what it is actually called or who were the first ascentionists. In anycase, this is an awesome pitch and is only 5.10b or so. Very sustained and pumpy. Jam and layback the crack to the bolts.


About 50 feet to the right of the Tunnel-through start of Ghostrider. About 20 feet to the left of the 5.9 bolted start of Ghostrider.


Nothing but cams. Lots of wide-fingers to hands gear. Two slung bolts are at the top of the crack (without rap rings). Rappel off the slings (do not lower off). Pull the rope slowly so as to avoid weakening the slings.

Photos of Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Julien Lecorps climbing Tanager
Julien Lecorps climbing Tanager
Rock Climbing Photo: Julien Lecorps on the 2 bolt slab extension to Tan...
Julien Lecorps on the 2 bolt slab extension to Tan...
Rock Climbing Photo: Good times.
Good times.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Tanager
Start of Tanager
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack
Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack
Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack

Comments on Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 8, 2016
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Sep 10, 2007

The route is called Tanager 5.10b FA by Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary in 1978 if you can believe that!

By C Miller
From: CA
Sep 10, 2007

Named after the species of bird?
By Darrell Hensel
May 20, 2008

Tanager can now be done as a first pitch to Ghostrider. Continue face climbing past two more bolts after reaching the belay bolts at the end of the crack. The extended pitch ends on the large ledge at the last/bottom rappel station of Ghostrider.

The crack is still the crux so the overall rating remains the same. This is probably the best start to Ghostrider.
By Victor Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 22, 2009

you can also use this as a great way to warm up for Gangway! Just head right from the anchor up a brushy gully and whamo, yer at the base of the crux pitch (.12a semi-sandbagged IMHO) of Gangway.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Nov 1, 2011

Great pitch! We used this to start ghost rider which was a great way to start the day. The slab above the crack is pretty friable though and leads you (or at least me) right into a bush when you are the most run out... Exciting but fun. Nothing like a 5th class bushwhack!
By Richard Shore
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

If Nimbus over on the right side of WP Buttress is 5.10c, then this really is the "5.11 crack." This felt significantly harder than then crux of that route. Bad feet with lots of 0.5 and 0.75 camalot-sized jamming.
By Richard Shore
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Repeated this route last weekend; this time with the slab extension to link into Ghostrider. I must disagree with Hensel's statement that the slab is only 10a - this felt harder than the crux of the crack below. It was thin, sequential, and in the heat of the sun felt closer to 11a than 10a. Tat slings on the lower-off bolts are currently gone, bring your own if you want to finish at the end of the crack.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Richard, you're spot-on.

Slab + sun = grim

Great route.
By Ryan-G Gittins
From: San Diego
Sep 22, 2013

Great, full value line. I whipped 6 times before gaining the anchors, then went full air born before making the clip on the slab. Not standard practice for me, but it's so good, and the fall so clean, that it was well worth it. 3 x .75 will be appreciated, if you're breaking into the grade.
By Daniel Vakili
May 4, 2015

Onsight after doing part of ghostrider earlier in the day. This felt easier than the crux of ghostrider, but harder than that undercling-traverse section on the second pitch. Reminded me of Rubicon in Joshua tree in terms of difficulty.

I left bail biners on the bolts. Please enjoy them!
Nov 8, 2016

This is a great pitch. Doing the extension is the way to go because it takes you to a natural ledge instead of an arbitrary hanging belay in the middle of nowhere. The slab section is very cool and may have cleaned up some since the above comments. It felt a little harder than 5.10a but not as hard as the 5.10d face sequence on the 4th pitch of Gangway.

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