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Tan San Fot 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009

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Starting up the uninspiring chimney.

Description 

This route is highly regarded in several guidebooks, perhaps due to the unusual nature of the climbing, and there is no doubt about the route´s popularity. There are some awesome pockets on this route, but the line traverses dramatically to link the obvious weaknesses, and this detracts quite a bit, and makes the route a poor choice for those at their limit.

Begin up the chimney, but keep your eye out for face holds on the left. Jugs appear as the chimney widens, eventually reaching a good stance below the crux. Locate a good 2¨ edge on the steep face out right. Commit to the edge, and traverse strenuously on bad, polished feet, to a large pocket. Rest up here, then make big moves up and right to gain the slab. Things ease on the slab, which eventually hosts a number of interesting pockets. Head slightly right at the top to the hidden anchor below a small roof.

Location 

Walk left along the base of the cliff to a gray rounded buttress, with a wide chimney crack on the left. Tan San Fot begins up this chimney & climbs the buttress. This is currently the 2nd bolted line left of the steep, orange parallel chimney of ¨Sayanora Baby¨, and the first route right of Remena ¨Nena¨.

Protection 

~10 bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. This is hard to clean due to the traversey nature.


Photos of Tan San Fot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tan San Fot starts up the chimney, traverses aroun...
Tan San Fot starts up the chimney, traverses aroun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the upper slab of TSF.
Enjoying the upper slab of TSF.

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