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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Cruising Lane T 
Detour, The T 
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
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Masterbator's Edge, The T 
Milk and Honey T 
Milk Dreams T 
Mirage T 
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 
Parallels T 
Pool of Blood T 
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 
Rhadamanthus T 
River Of Darkness T 
Road Narrows T 
Sign of the Cross T 
Snail Mail T 
Srinagar T 
Tampon T,TR 
Tango T 
Tanqueray T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Texas Two-Step T 
Three Lane Highway T 
Toprope Right of Formula TR 
Trip Itch T 
Tryptich T 
Whatever T 
Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 

Tampon 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: John Sherman, 1980
Page Views: 1,046
Submitted By: Joseph Proulx on Oct 9, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO

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  • Description 

    This route is the shallow, left-facing dihedral on the face between Duh Dihedral and Pool of Blood. Start from a small ledge with a smaller tree (bottom left of photo) and climb the dihedral to where PoB meets DD. The climbing is easier than it looks, but the moves are tricky to work out.

    A pitch of climbing like this would merit three stars. It's short but very fun climbing.

    Protection 

    Climb this with a TR on the Duh Diheral chains. On lead, you'll probably want a few small to medium cams that you wouldn't need on Duh Dihedral .


    Comments on Tampon Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Randy Carmichael
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 8, 2005

    I think the pro basically sucks on this one. Emphasis on small RPs. TR from DD is probably the best option.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 29, 2005

    Comment as was attached to 'Pool Of Blood' (neighboring route):

    By: Tony Bubb On: 11.5.2001 Comments: This route can be finished directly from the top of the flake to the tree on some small holds and seams. This is probably 5.11- and there really is no gear, so a TR is advisable. (Bubb, Donson winter 2000?)
    By M. Morley
    Administrator
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Jan 25, 2007

    Worth climbing once.
    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 3, 2008

    The pro on this one is very poor. Easier to TR from Duh Dihedral. I think this is a sandbag at 5.7 maybe 5.8 with one 5.9 move before you merge with Duh Dihedral.
    By Dave Pilot
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 27, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    The pro is small but it seemed adequate. One needs a good rack of micro stoppers. There seemed to be a good placement at every good stance and I never felt run out. However, that said, if you're not very confident and capable at the grade, TR it.
    By Robert Buswold
    From: Northglenn, CO
    Feb 26, 2012

    I did this one as a TR from the anchors for Duh Dihedral. The crux move seemed very hard for me, even harder than Pool of Blood to the left.
    By Ben Burnett
    From: Colorado
    Mar 4, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

    At the ledge, jog left to the top of Pool's flake for a move and then continue up to the top. A full pitch and independent line (on TR).

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