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Tammy Jo Memorial  

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Kent Benesch/Cassandra Hummel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 606
Submitted By: kent benesch on Apr 24, 2015

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The route is 3 pitches long, all bolts. I believe you will need 12-15 quick draws. All anchors are bolts with chains on them. If you summit you must rap the North Face route ( all bolts with chains )a 60 meter rope will work with 4 rappels.
Pitch 1= 5.11a 80 feet
Pitch 2= 5.11c/d 80 feet (classic arete solid rock)
Pitch 3= 5.11c/d 100 feet


Left of the original Southwest face route. About 50 left of the dihedral on pitch 1 of the Southwest face.


All bolts

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By Dave McRae
Apr 30, 2015

Thanks for posting this, Kent. This route looks soooo proud!
By Nick_M
Sep 19, 2016

Totally awesome route and striking line! Would recommend it to anyone able. 3 pitches of steep, sustained arete climbing take you to the top of the beautifully odd Steins Pillar. I'd even call it a 'poor man's Backbone' (on Monkey Face). Good rock, super airy and exposed, there's TONS of air below and all around you from the get-go. Not for the squeamish. If this was at Smith it would be a total favorite, and a bit feared.

I felt it deserves a PG-13 rating for a sport climb. Though it's nice and steep and the falls aren't huge, you want to have your wits about you when you pop off and come swinging into the arete (true with any arete climb). Unexpected, out-of-control falls would be uncomfortable.

5.11+ sounds about right. Be prepared to get pretty committed above bolts on steep ground, searching for holds without chalk, with a rattling wind at your back and hundreds of feet of air below your toes. A beautiful climb!

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