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Tall Storey 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 8 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Perry and Ian Perry, Sept 2009
Page Views: 916
Submitted By: Tom Gnyra on Aug 30, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Heading towards the wall

Description 

From the beautiful archives of TABVAR:

This steep, multi-pitch sport route climbs the big wall on the right-hand side of the huge bowl at the top of the upper canyon across from The Coliseum. The wall sees very little sun (except for late afternoon/evening) so it is best to wait for a warm day. The wall has two major ledge systems on its right side, which angle down to below The Notch. The ledge systems are wide and covered with trees, and allow easy access from the climb (which passes the left end of the lower ledge and finishes at the upper ledge). The large wall is called Elevator Wall and climbing only to the lower ledge system is Short Storey, to the upper ledge system is Tall Storey. The climb could be continued for two or three more pitches to the very top of the cliff, but not at the same standard or quality. However, since recent rock fall has made descent via the upper ledge more difficult, these pitches may be added to access the Grotto Mountain hiking trail on the ridge above. Allow 3.5-5 hours to climb the route, in addition to the approach and descent.




(check out Sonnie Trotter climb this thing!)

Climbing sequence 

1) 30m, 5.10c A0 (or 11c). Move up into the alcove and step up right onto the wall. Use the 2nd bolt (A0) to gain a foot/hand hold on the right (5.11c free) and climb the wall above angling right and then left into the base of a groove. Follow the groove and traverse out left at the top to a ledge below a yellow wall. Climb the wall trending right to a fractured ledge system and chained anchor.

2) 30m, 5.11c. Move right and make a bold move (11b) over a small roof onto the slabby wall above. Continue up to the base of a steep corner and move up with difficulty (11c) onto its right wall. Follow the wall and corner above on excellent, steep rock to exit at the top (11b). Traverse straight left to a station in a short corner. This sustained pitch is one of the best on the route!

3) 25m, 5.10d. Climb the small corner and continue up the bulging wall above to an obvious shattered ledge system leading left. Steep easy moves along the ledge system lead to an airy station in an alcove at the base of a shallow groove.

4) 20m, 5.11b. Follow the groove past the left side of a small roof (11b) and continue on good holds trending left higher up to a station below an overhanging corner. A technical pitch on immaculate rock.

5) 20m, 5.10d. Climb steep rock on good holds over the bulge and into a small corner below a roof. Move right easily around the roof and go up into a short V-corner. Climb the corner to easy ground and a big ledge system with a (chained) tree on the right. Either exit here along the ledge (Short Storey) or continue up left to a station at the base of Pitch 5.

6) 30m, 5.10c. Make an awkward move up left on to a small rib and traverse left to a short wall. Climb the wall to a shattered ledge on the left below a small roof. Crank through the roof (10c) into a steep corner/ramp which angles up to the right. Follow the corner/ramp on excellent holds until a large V-shaped bay (capped by a roof) is reached. Either split the pitch at the good station below the roof or continue up the next short pitch (3 more draws required, 16 total).

7) 5m, 5.10c. Move left onto the rib and climb up past a small overhang to a 2-bolt station below another roof with an obvious exit groove on the right.

8) 25m, 5.11a. Delicate moves up the groove (11a) and past a large chert nodule lead to better holds and then an overhanging wave of rock below the upper ledge system. Climb the wave moving right near the top with steep, exposed (11a) moves to finish (hidden bolt on ledge). The last few meters of this pitch can seep after heavy rain or spring run-off, which may add to the excitement. Note it is possible to combine pitch 7 and 8 together, but the leader cannot be seen by the belayer for most of the climbing

(All credit goes to Chris and Ian Perry for this topo)

Location 

Continue up the creek bed past The Hideaway into the upper canyon - as for The Coliseum. The huge wall on the right is Elevator Wall and the climb starts about 60 m left of an easy break in the lower cliff band. Start in a small alcove with a row of bolts leading up and right. ~1 hr 15 mins from car

Protection 

60-70m Rope, 14 Quick Draws, Helmets are strongly recommended.


Photos of Tall Storey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the 4th pitch (5.11b) on Tall Storey
Finishing the 4th pitch (5.11b) on Tall Storey
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the top of the 8th pitch on Tall Sto...
The view from the top of the 8th pitch on Tall Sto...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 6
Pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: From Sonnie Trotter's website
From Sonnie Trotter's website

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