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Tall Man Simplex 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 3,215
Submitted By: Aleksei Potov on Jun 17, 2013  with updates from Lukas Wiborg

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Description 

This a fun little roof route on the east side of Shady rock. It is hard to reach the first bolt for shorter climbers, hence the name, due to bad feet early on and a necessary reach over the edge. Crux is turning from the overhang to the face.

Location 

Start in front of the cave with first bolt right above you.

Protection 

Two bolts. Bolted anchor with screw links on top. Watch the tree if you swing out of the cave. Can be toproped but really watch out for the swing then.


Photos of Tall Man Simplex Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: fun highball boulder problem out of the cave with ...
fun highball boulder problem out of the cave with ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Evan Rosenberg bouldering out Tall Man Simplex (5....
Evan Rosenberg bouldering out Tall Man Simplex (5....
Rock Climbing Photo: East side of Shady rock, with cave and roof in the...
BETA PHOTO: East side of Shady rock, with cave and roof in the...

Comments on Tall Man Simplex Add Comment
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By Alex Lloyd
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Jul 13, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great bouldery crux down low. Really well protected. Right bolt at the anchors wiggles a bit.
By Mike Deitchman
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 27, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is the rare route that's easier to skip the first bolt than to clip it. Pausing at the lip of the roof to clip that bolt is the crux on lead.

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