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Talking with Angels 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Krzysztof Gorny, Mark Postle, Patrick Price, 2002
Page Views: 608
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007

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The route starts in a short left-facing corner 10 feet left of Where Real Men Dare. Climb the corner (small Aliens, Lowe Balls) and veer up and left through a series of small overhangs (up to #3 BD cams, medium Aliens). Traverse right and clip the bolt under a blank face capped by a large roof. Climbing between the two bolts is the technical crux (5.11d). From the second bolt move right onto the arete. Climb few feet to the flaring horizontal crack and stuff it with gear (small Aliens, nuts) to protect the final run-out to the top.


Locate the left facing corner behind a blank pillar approximately 10 feet left of Where Real Men Dare. The two bolts protecting the crux are visible straight up.


Small cams, nuts, and TCU's. This route was intended to be mixed. Mark placed two bolts on it and I insisted that the top can safely be protected with a TCU. During the first attempt, in 1997, I fell from the very top, ripped the TCU and ended up with a 30 foot screamer along the tree. I learned my lesson and I would definitely batch gear up at the last placement 10ft from the top. The route was climbed clean 5 years later, in 2002.

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