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Talking Out Of Turn 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D and Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 7,543
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 27, 2008

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Great view from the anchors.

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  • Description 

    This is a great two-pitch or one long pitch route that offers great and varied climbing.

    If done in two pitches bring 8 to 9 draws. If doing one pitch bring 14 draws.

    Pitch 1: Start left of Isn't Life Strange on a good ledge. Climb up past two bolts in the gold face tending left to a corner. Climb the corner and arete up to a two-bolt anchor.

    Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the anchor into another shallow corner. Cool moves lead to a good ledge and small overhang. Climb the overhang on the left and then fire up the nice face to the anchor.

    Can be done in one pitch.

    A 60-meter rope makes it back to the starting ledge but not the careful lowering.


    Just left of "Isn't Life Strange" up the gold wall to a shallow corner. Maybe bring a long sling to clip the third bolt.


    12 bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor if done in one pitch.

    Photos of Talking Out Of Turn Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Talking Out Of Turn.
    BETA PHOTO: Start of Talking Out Of Turn.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling hard in a thin section.
    Pulling hard in a thin section.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Luke starting up the shallow corner after the open...
    Luke starting up the shallow corner after the open...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mary Riedmiller starting up the route. Bruno Hache...
    Mary Riedmiller starting up the route. Bruno Hache...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of pitch.
    BETA PHOTO: Start of pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob D. beginning the extension to Talking Out of T...
    Bob D. beginning the extension to Talking Out of T...

    Comments on Talking Out Of Turn Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 15, 2017
    By SCherry
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 17, 2008


    Good seeing you on Saturday. Thanks for pointing us in the direction of these new routes. We climbed this one in one long pitch (70 meter rope needed) and it was fantastic. Certainly will get better with more traffic. Would have tried the others in the area had we not lost our sun. The 11d with your draws on it looks stellar too...any idea what the crack to the left (with the obvious pin down low) goes at? Did you put in some anchors for this line?

    By Dan Brockway
    From: Boulder
    Mar 20, 2008

    Good route Bob. A really nice addition to the canyon in the 5.10 range.
    We did the whole route (12 bolts) with a 60 meter rope but belayed about 10 feet below the first bolt. A 60 meter rope easily makes it from there but as always be careful. Tie a knot in the end of your rope if there is any doubt in your mind.
    By Bruce Pech
    May 5, 2008
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    This should become a Boulder Canyon classic -- lovely position and climbing. The crux corner on the second pitch is tougher than .10b for 5'3" and shorter climbers (my wife was grumbling "sandbag," ".10d," etc. as she reached the anchors).
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 10, 2008
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    This is a great climb! One of the best 5.10 sport routes I've done in Boulder Canyon. Interesting, exposed, and sustained. I felt the crux (a funky corner just above the mid-way anchor) was about 10c, and may be harder for shorter climbers.

    You can get to the starting ledge for this climb in several ways:

    1. Climb Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello (9+, bolts) and continue past the two-bolt anchor to a big dead pine tree on a ledge about 70' up.

    2. Walk right beneath Laurel & Hardy... for several hundred feet, and find a path cutting back up left to the ledge with the big dead tree.

    You can belay by this tree (it is solid enough to be used as an anchor), or scramble up loose ground for 25' to a higher ledge just below the first bolt on the route.

    From the higher ledge, it is about 100' to the top anchor. You can lower or rappel with a 60m rope. From the lower ledge with the dead tree, it is about 125' to the top anchor. You would need a 70m rope to lower to here, but be careful if you try this.
    By Bruno Hache
    From: Longmont, CO
    May 12, 2008
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Bob and Greg,
    On the behalf of the climbing community, THANKS.
    One of the nicest blend of continuity, just enough run out and length.
    One of the best 5.10 in Boulder Canyon.
    Will do that route again. It's sooooo good!

    An alternative to the 60 m being too short to belay from the ground:
    Belay the follower from the second belay top anchor, it's comfy enough.
    Bonus: A stunning view across the canyon!
    Two rappels will bring you back safely on the ground.

    Stay left for the crux move, otherwise it's a dead end/way harder.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 16, 2008
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    A good climb, mostly owing to its length. There are still some loose rocks but they are pretty obvious- remember there could be people below and be cautious. Also some suspicious holds (caution, eh?) and including an odd crux hold (flake/pinch/gaston) on the 2nd pitch, probably where Ron mentions the crux in a tight corner. I doubt it will be there forever.
    Climb on a 70m to return to the starting ledge by the dead tree with no worries.
    By Mike Dallin
    Jun 13, 2008

    There is a large loose block just waiting to fall about 2 feet down and right of the moves to the touch, but it is too big to lower down with a person carrying it. Trundling is not an option when people are below, like there was today... and who knows, it may hit the highway when it does go. Be very careful up there, and when you pull your rope, the thing is dangerous.
    By Chris Archer
    Aug 4, 2009
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    The large loose block right of the anchor is still there, stacked on another loose block. Trundling does not seem like an option regardless of whether there are climbers below as it could easily take the ride to the road.
    By Meredith DB
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 27, 2009

    Hmmm, I guess I'm the odd one out here. I didn't think this route was very good, mainly because I found it quite chossy. A lot of key holds on the route are not fully attached or are hollow. Maybe it will clean up with time.

    The best part was seeing the antique pitons on an old aid line just right of the top of this route.
    By slim
    Oct 8, 2012
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Ok climbing, mostly by virtue of length. The first bolt above the ledge should have been placed so that you can clip it while standing on the boulder. Unfortunately this seems to be a theme for this area of the crag (and GH routes in general).
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 8, 2012

    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 19, 2013

    Agreed that it's kinda ridiculous to have to climb off of the boulder to clip that first bolt on the headwall considering that a fall would be really bad there. I clipped some bolt out right then downclimbed and cleaned it. Please add a bolt.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 26, 2013

    A new first bolt has been added. Thanks to Bob & Bruno for doing this.
    By Jon Zucco
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 26, 2013

    Climbs better as one pitch. A 70m will get you from the rap rings at the top of p1 down past the tree to a dirty ramp closer to the ground trail, so you can avoid much of the class four downclimb if you want. Just be careful not to put the rope over anything sharp and to not get it tangled in the tree limbs when you pull it. Thanks for those bolts, fellas.

    Nice and long climb with fantastic views and fun movement.
    By ScoJo
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 12, 2014

    The large block is still sitting precariously on a small ledge next to the anchor. This gave me quite a fright when I setting up my rappel. I barely touched it, and it started to fall down. I caught it and tried to set it back in a stable position. I'm surprised it's still there after 6 years or so. I'm not sure if further action should be taken to remove the rock, but people should at least be aware of it (it wasn't mentioned in the guidebook we had).

    Otherwise the route was pretty fun. Did it in one pitch with a 70 m. We belayed from the boulder, but I was able to rappel down to the base of upper Animal World.
    By Evan Anderson
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 6, 2015

    I pulled a giant block off at the 3rd bolt and took a groundfall. Didn't get hurt, but bad belay for sure. There is a lot of bad rock on this climb. WATCH OUT! So yeah, the jug at the 3rd bolt is not there anymore, I don't think it really affected the grade though. I did it with out the jug and finished the climb just fine.
    By Stan Z
    From: Centennial, CO
    Apr 24, 2015

    WARNING: loose block next to anchor. Be really careful. It's a fun climb, but I wouldn't do it again until the block is gone.
    By Matt Pierce
    From: Denver, CO
    May 15, 2017
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Uber fun route. Very hard to clean on rappel. The deathblock at the belay is clearly marked - easily avoided. Did it in 1 long pitch with a 70m. Well bolted and fun moves - one of the best sport routes I've ever done.

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