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Talk Dusty To Me 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Tony Brengosz on Nov 27, 2016

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not sure of the real name or FA of this route, so please comment if you know, and I'll update the info.

A nice, if short, pitch on the far left of the South face. Climb a crack with feet and some hollow rock to a fun left leaning offset crack/ramp feature that gets thinner and thinner towards the top.

Be very careful of loose rock while topping out and rappelling, as there is quite a bit of it. Some of it pretty good sized. I'd recommend a helmet for the belayer.

This is a good pitch to do if you're waiting for lightning bolt cracks to open up, and is also kind of cool because despit its length, you can see the feature from quite a ways away.

Location 

Far left side of the South face.

Protection 

Double rack of Camalots to 3 is plenty. Bring a new sling for the two pin anchor.


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