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Tales of Flails 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J. Tainio, B. Stolp - June 24, 1981
Page Views: 4,270
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 19, 2007

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Tales of Flails

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


I've always found this route to have fun, varied climbing and at a moderate grade. There's good climbing in the big chimney via a variety of jams with good feet and ample gear. Going to the first set of anchors is most popular, at 5.9 but you can continue to a second set of anchors at 5.10. A few bolts protect the top of this pitch and it's 130 feet to the upper anchors.


This route climbs the crack system in the large chimney left of Conrad Anker's bolted 5.11+ face, Electrica, which is 30-40 feet left of Cherry Crack.


Double set of cams to gold Camalot with singles in the smallest sizes. Two ropes if going to the high anchor.

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By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 23, 2010

the pitch to the first anchors goes at really fun 5.9
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Dec 1, 2014

The 2nd pitch requires thin gear, you may want doubles of finger size and smaller.
By Ray Hellinger
From: Gunnison, CO
Mar 25, 2015

Fun climb. Much better than it looks.
By Jeremy Almond
From: Las Vegas
Jul 28, 2015

Does the first pitch require trad gear?
By Tofu Brain
From: Denver
Jul 28, 2015

Jer Alz hope this helps.

1. It's a trad route.
2. It states the protection needed for the route "Double set of cams to gold Camalot with singles in the smallest sizes"
3. It also states " A few bolts protect the top of this pitch and it's 130 feet to the upper anchors",
4. It's a trad route.


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