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Shaken But Not Stirred S 
Tales from the Gripped S 

Tales from the Gripped 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Christian Burrell
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: jtwalter on Aug 1, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: 1 The Hidden 5.10c 2 .44 Caliber Killer 5.11b 3 Me...


Another steep route with a difficult start. The crux may be getting to the first bolt. Thin holds and side pulls with little to no feet start this route. First three bolts are the technical crux. After third bolt you get a rest and it eases up a bit and you get some great jugs. Last part of the climb goes steep into the left side of the big flake at the top.

This route is a little stiffer than the .11a just to the right. It felt more sustained and the start is definitely harder. Still a fun route with a lot of good climbing on it.

This route doesn't see a lot of traffic so there is still some loose stuff on it that will most likely come off.


First route from the left on the western half of the Hidden. #5 on the topo photo.


8 bolts + chains. Shares chains with route to the right (Flakenstein).

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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 1, 2007

Equipped by DK; he let me nab the first lead of this baby a few years ago, but I had to clean the darn thing first. Climb to the right side of the bolts on the whole lower slab. This is way easier than trying to follow the bolts themselves.
Originally, this was .10b, but a few holds crumbled at the start hence the bump up in grade. The upper party is good clean fun on big jugs. Enjoy!
By Bad Sock Puppet
Aug 26, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Crux is definitely at the beginning of the climb. If you're not comfortable with harder stuff than bring a stick-clip. Start is harder than an 11a. Lots of dirty holds and crumbly stuff. At the top there is a big flake (500+ lbs) that is just waiting to pop off, so be careful. Distance between the last bolt and the chains for how exposed and crappy the route is, is really sketchy. If I were Hidden Wall I would disown this route!
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 31, 2009

Still pretty dirty. Shame, because it could be cool. Maybe will clean up eventually.
From: Texas
Aug 10, 2011

This climb felt a lot stouter than an 11a. It may have been because some holds have broken off near the bottom (A few came off while I was on it). Or it may be because we had bad beta (we climbed straight over the first 3 bolts), but this felt significantly harder than Doom and Forsaken (both rated 11b). Then again, I felt like those routes were pretty easy for the grade, so I just don't know. I've felt like all of the grades on the wall have been a little weird, but the rock is top notch and most of the climbs are a lot of fun.
In any case, the important thing to know is that Tales From The Gripped is a lot harder than its rating suggests and a lot less fun than all of the stuff right next to it.

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