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g. The Great Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dean's List S 
Dean's List (arête variation) S,TR 
Open Book T 
Tales from the Crypt T,S,TR 
Three Buttresses (first pitch) T 
Three Buttresses (first pitch, variation 2) T,TR 

Tales from the Crypt 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Mel Hamel and Tom Stryker, Sep 1979.
Page Views: 1,297
Submitted By: Justin Compton on Jul 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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A picture from above of me climbing this beast. I ...

Description 

The climb is on the Great Buttress, it's the obvious bolted line on the left. A little runout and pumpy at the top. BE KIND TO THE CACTI!!! Did the upper pitches once with 3 good friends and a couple cold beers in tow. Worth the effort of tricky gear and route finding through questionable rock. I only remember one bolt after the cactus ledge and then making a skecthy belay on the next large ledge. I ended up getting a couple pieces in and clearing a beautiful crack out of vegetation on the final slab to the top. Belay off the fence at the top and answer questions from non-climbers while bringing your partner(s) up.

P1: 5.10a PG. 60 feet, 3 bolts.
P2/3: 5.7? R. 60 feet?, 2 bolts?.

Protection 

Standard rack, 3 bolts, bolted belay.


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By Justin Compton
From: Lafayette, CO
Jan 18, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Did the upper pitches once with 3 good friends and a couple cold beers in tow. Worth the effort of tricky gear and route finding through questionable rock. I only remember one bolt after the cactus ledge and then making a skecthy belay on the next large ledge. I ended up getting a couple peices in and clearing a beautiful crack out of vegetation on the final slab to the top.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Good climbing through some positive--but polished--holds. I would suggest a PG-13 rating due to to the proximity to the dying tree. If someone were to peel off the final mantle to Cactus Ledge, there's a good chance you'll be pulling tree limbs out of your arse!!
By Tom Stryker
Jan 24, 2017

This route had zero bolts on the first ascent.

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