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Tale of Two Shitties T 
Trezlar T 

Tale of Two Shitties 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas Chis Jones Mike Hartley 78
Page Views: 2,147
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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pitch 2 of Tale...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


An excellent three pitch climb follows the right-hand side of the formation. The 2nd pitch is great climbing.

Pitch 1:
Climb a slightly chossy corner system for about 80 feet to a gear belay at the base of the dihedral. (uncomfortable belay)

Pitch 2: Jam the clean dihedral until the crack veers right then climb a strenous finger crack through a bulge to a fat ledge with a bolt anchor.

Pitch 3:
A bit spooky! Climb the face above and left of the anchor past a few bolts to a decent runout on small nubbins (5.9) to the big ledge above.

The easiest way off is to traverse the ledge above the 3rd pitch to the anchor at the top of the Trezlar dihedral and rap from there with two ropes.


Right of Bad Moon Rising there is a large block leaning against the face, it has two bolts on it. The second crack system to the right of the block is Tale.


gear to 3" with an extra hand size for the anchor on top of pitch 1.

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By Roche
May 1, 2008

Heather of Seattle, grabbed your Mountain Hardwear vest at the bottom of the pitch. Happy to get it back to you in return for a your Enchantments pass. Get ahold of me and I'll send it your way.

Great route. Super fun, powerful crux. Protect it with a #1 then fire it!
By stj
Jun 28, 2012

Well worth doing for the second pitch finger crack action. It would be very popular if it was a single pitch off the ground. And you don't need 2 ropes to get down: rap with one 60m from the top of Trezlar (see my comment on that route).
By Daniel Vakili
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

60m rope ran right up to the top of the second belay. Now that's a proper pitch of climbing. Highly recommended.
By Topher Dabrowski
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I enjoyed this route but found the first pitch was tricky to protect at the start and had plenty of loose and creaky flakes/blocks. The P1 belay was not too inspiring and would benefit from a set of fixed anchors given how hollow and soft the rock is.

Pitch 2 is great and of high quality. It ends at a comfy belay platform with belay bolts.

One can avoid the R rated pitch by rapping down to anchors on the climber's right (easily spotted from the belay station) with 3 raps on a 60m or 2 raps on a 70m rope.

Gear I would recommend:

1 set of nuts (include the bigger nuts & offset nuts worked well)
Camalot sizes 0.4 - 3.0 with double 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2
By Serge Smirnov
Jun 28, 2016

P1 felt 5.8.

The 10a hand traverse on P2 has great jugs for hands but no feet, so instead of trying to place protection in the middle I placed something early and went for it. There was quite a bit of space below me on both sides, so it might have been an ok fall even with the slight swing.

I thought some of the 5.9 moves between the bolts on P3 had ledge fall potential.

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