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Takillya Sunrise 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 610'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jaryn DeShane July 22, 2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 23, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Route line of Takillya Sunrise. © Kevin MacKenzie...

Description 

P1 (80’) 5.7: Climb flakes to a left rising ramp. Step left up ramp and climb to the tree island (crux). Belay from bomber trees.

P2 (180’) 5.6: Climb short slightly off-vertical wall and continue over a series of overlaps past a large block (take care of smaller blocks behind it). Continue up slab to a deep left-rising crack that’s approx. 10’ deep at its top. Belay (used #4, #5 & slung block).

P3 (150’) 5.4: Continue up mellow, but dirty slab to the bottom right corner of the large tree island at the right side of the Piano Ledge. Climb over obvious left-facing dihedral (critical green alien). Continue up slab to smaller right-facing dihedral and belay.

P4 (200’) 5.4 (5.2 R): Climb the dihedral to its top and step left. Continue up easy slab to a corner of trees belay.

Location 

Positioned between Gothic Arch and South Face Direct.

Start: Approx. 50’ before the Original Route below a set of right facing flakes on a vertical wall.

Exit: Scramble the slide tributary to its top and bushwhack to Range Trail between Gothics west shoulder and intersection with Weld Trail. Walk right on trail, hang another right at the intersection to return to Pyramid.

Protection 

Gear: Standard rack including small gear from #00 - .3 essential. 8-10 quickdraws. 70m rope makes this comfortable.


Photos of Takillya Sunrise Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jaryn at the right facing corner of the P3 belay.
BETA PHOTO: Jaryn at the right facing corner of the P3 belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin starting P1. ...better climbing than it look...
BETA PHOTO: Kevin starting P1. ...better climbing than it look...

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