|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe|
|Submitted By:||Luke Clarke on Apr 9, 2006|
|Comments on Take the Power Back||Add Comment|
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2006
There are two options going over the roof, either a weird slot on the right or a steep crack on the left. The climber in the photo appears to be straddling these two options, but it looks like he's headed for the left crack. The left crack is called a separate route in Rossiter's guide: "Crack In The Wall (10a)".
This climb is unusual in that there are several huecos on the face near that roof which make it easier. I was not expecting such face holds in granite and didn't see them until I got above them.
By Rich Farnham
Aug 18, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Some nice climbing on this one. We started at the very bottom of the wall, below the slab that you can traverse out on to from the right. It adds a 5.8/5.9 bulge that is worth doing, if a bit licheny.
I didn't read this description first, so I wasn't sure which way to go when I got to the final bulge and faced the two options George described above. The left option (apparently "Crack in the Wall") looked more straightforward, so I started that way, but as I started to pull the bulge, I realized that the large block (3'x3'?) visible in the photo might not be that well attached to the wall. I reversed the bulge and scoped it out - there appears to be a crack all the way around it. So I switched to the crack on the right, which turned out to have some of the most amazing/surprising huecos at the roof. Really cool and the recommended direction at this bulge.
I meant to look at the block more closely on the way down, but forgot. It could be fine, but be careful.
If you go to the right, save a #0.5 Camalot for after the bulge. The crack bottoms out for a bit, and that's the only piece that seemed to fit well for a while.