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Take the Bit 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Sonia Buckley, Tony Bubb, March 2016
New Route: Yes
Season: faces S/SW
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 8, 2016

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Sonia Buckley leads the FA of 'Take The Bit' (5.8)...

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  • Description 

    To 'Take the Bit' between one's teeth is figuratively to throw off restraints and proceed on a headlong course, to take control.

    Start off on some lower angle rock, and climb that past a shrub to reach a slightly offset splitter that connects to the hanging, left-facing dihedral up top. The wide section up top is not as hard as it looks. A large block in it is trapped there and could not be dislodged when we tried. It is easily avoided and seems to present no danger.

    Location 

    This route climbs some junky, low angle rock to reach a reasonable splitter crack. Ascend that up to and through the left-facing dihedral at the left (West) side of the Horse's Head, 3/4 of the way up Pegasus.

    Protection 

    Standard light rack + a few extra cams in the 2" +/- range. A medium nut and off-fingers cam (1-1.5") can protect the crux entering the wide part. A gear belay is needed up top, and you walk/scramble off from that to the West and then back South.


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