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Peg Leg Wall
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Best For Your Stick S 
catch the wave S 
Chili Dog S 
close to the bone S 
Clutching At Straws S 
Corn Dog S 
Dough Daddy S 
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 
men of iron T 
Miss Money Penny S 
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Work S 
Promised Land S 
Sex Wax S 
surf's up S 
Take It To The Bank S 
Unknown Short Warmup S 

Take It To The Bank 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: unknown, hopefully someone can add this info
Season: warmer Shelf months (shady)
Page Views: 318
Submitted By: slim on Nov 3, 2014

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Description 

Take It To The Bank is a fairly new route on an old panel. Whoever put up this route (and likely the 2 new ones to the right) did a good job seeing these lines and putting them together. It is kind of a non-typical, harder Shelf route - not a whole lot of heavy crimping or brutal pocket pulling on this one. If you are a boulderer, this should be right up your alley.

Begin up some jumbled blocks to a slightly chossy, right-facing dihedral. Cruise up on easy climbing, with the worst looking block, 'the plank', actually being pretty solid. The dihedral quickly gets harder as it arcs over into an undercling that fades out. Make a surprisingly pesky traverse to a blunt arete of sorts, and get a poor shake. A monster move to a pitbull mini-jug, followed by easier-but-not-cake climbing will get you to the anchors.

If you nail the PMJ, do whatever it takes to make it to the chains - you really don't want to fondle this hold too many times....

Location 

This route is located on the left most of the three major panels at the Peg Leg Wall. The approach trail comes up to the rightmost panel, walk left about 100 yards to a black panel with 5 routes on it. This is the second route from the left and starts up a chossy, right-facing dihedral that arcs right and fades out.

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts and anchors. You can use the first bolt on the route to the left, or just stick clip the second bolt. The bolts are placed in the best locations for clipping, but the traversing nature of the route combined with the ledge below and the dihedral to the left makes falling at the first crux kind of spooky but not unsafe.


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