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Take Back The Rainbow 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe french, Bryan Bird
Season: Srping, Summer, fall
Page Views: 1,471
Submitted By: Danger-Russ Gordon on Apr 5, 2014

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Excellent route!! tons of fun mostly easy climbing, an awesome summit, and a bit of bush whacking to complete this Zion adventure.

3 parts worth mentioning:

- pitch 2 has decent holds but often deep, and its in almost a chimney at times, it really sucks for the 2nd if they have a pack, try to go light and fast, we averaged 30 mins per pitch on the first go with out trying to hard.

- The physical crux for us was the start of pitch 5, thruth fest small roof with bad feet unless you can stem very well. the pro is only ok there

- Mental crux was the last pitch, solid 5.9 moves with what i felt was almost pg-13 pro. I had to ooze in and out of a chimney to get some sort of pro, i guess you could take a large big bro or something...

The summit at the bridge mountain arch (aka Crawford arch) is all worth it!!

Location 

Starts right next to smash-mouth. take the normal path to confluence, and keep going around the corner until you see the big roof.

Protection 

a set of double BD cams from .3 - 3, a 4 and a 5 is all you should need. Stoppers if you want, we did not use any, and we took a few triples we never needed, and I would not consider myself overly bold. bring a few extra slings, and a few alpine draws.


Photos of Take Back The Rainbow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit
Summit
Rock Climbing Photo: topo 1
BETA PHOTO: topo 1
Rock Climbing Photo: no homo
no homo
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 1, left is TBTR, Right is smash mouth
pitch 1, left is TBTR, Right is smash mouth
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 3, the most fun pitch for us
pitch 3, the most fun pitch for us
Rock Climbing Photo: pic
pic
Rock Climbing Photo: MS paint baby!!
BETA PHOTO: MS paint baby!!
Rock Climbing Photo: blank
blank

Comments on Take Back The Rainbow Add Comment
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By Danger-Russ Gordon
From: Orem UT
Apr 5, 2014

if any one needs clarification, let me know, at the time of posting this it was late and odds are i could have done something better, if so let me know :)
By Sam Keller
Apr 1, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A pretty good route. Maybe 4 pitches of quality climbing in my opinion. We took the right hand chimney on the top. What a wild ride. My advice a #6 is not needed. Take a 70 meter rope. My 70m barely reached some of the rap anchors.

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