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Takakkaw Falls Area
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Takakkaw Falls (winter) 


Type:  Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 800', Grade V
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: FA: Jack Firth, Bugs McKeith, John Lauchlan, Rob Wood '74. FFA: Duncan Ferguson, Dave Wright '77.
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Mar 13, 2017

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Dave Rone enjoying little sunshine during rappels ...


Remote and rarely climbed, Takakkaw Falls is a Rockies' classic. Due to the high volume of water flowing under the ice, however, ice conditions can be sketchy, be careful. Especially at the top where a horizontal ice shell must be crossed to reach the upper-most anchor. Falling through the shell would likely have dire consequences. Set your top anchor lower if there is any uncertainty. Follow the path of least resistance and the best ice, usually starting up the left side. Using 70m ropes, the route can be climbed in 4 ptches.

Good skiers/climbers can do the route car-to-car in a day, the rest of us will bivy at/near an open cook shelter another kilometer past the parking lot, There are some big critters that lurk in the shelter at night, so pack up your food!


Takakkaw Falls is a 14 km ski up the Yoho Valley Road (closed in winter) from the parking area at the bottom of the hill, just east of Field.


An assortment of screws for pro and for building belays. Use v-threads to get down.

Photos of Takakkaw Falls (winter) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Takakkaw Falls -- 1st pitch. Dave Rone, 3/17.
Takakkaw Falls -- 1st pitch. Dave Rone, 3/17.
Rock Climbing Photo: Takakkaw Falls from the approach trail.
Takakkaw Falls from the approach trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pay caution when approaching the first ice. Dave R...
Pay caution when approaching the first ice. Dave R...
Rock Climbing Photo: A snowy Takakkaw Falls
BETA PHOTO: A snowy Takakkaw Falls

Comments on Takakkaw Falls (winter) Add Comment
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By Kris Gorny
Mar 18, 2017
rating: WI4

Clip of climbing Takakkaw in March 2017. It was alive near the top.

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