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Taiwan On 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: ScottH on Mar 1, 2006  with updates from Byron Igoe

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Taiwan On tackles the arete just left of Pack Animal Direct. Viewed from the base of Pack Animal and nearby routes the arete is dramatic feature, and looks incredibly sharp. The climb starts up the vertical face on the right side of the arete. Swing around to the left side when you run out of features, then back to the right side a little higher. Transitioning from one side to the other can be tricky. The crux comes near the top of the face, connecting crimps to pull onto the slab above the face before an easier run to the anchor.



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Rock Climbing Photo: through the crux
through the crux

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 18, 2007

A nice tick if in the neighborhood, but nothing spectacular.
By BSwett
From: Bend, Or.
Apr 13, 2011

Tricky freakin' climb.
By Phildlm
Oct 14, 2016

I found this to be one of the better 10c's in the park. Watts gives it 3 stars and I'd agree. Fun, good location, easily accessible, unique route on an arete.
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Dec 4, 2016

Climbing on the left side of the arete for the first 3 bolts is awkward and detracts from an otherwise good route. It's possible head left after the last bolt and link into Headless Horseman for a nice long pitch. About 14 bolts total, consider extending the first bolt you clip on Headless with a long sling, lower to the ground with a 70m. Beware your belayer won't be able to see you for most of Headless.
By Franck Vee
Jul 12, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Interesting moves swinging from one side to the other of that arrete. The rock above decreases in quality which takes away a bit of the quality of the climb.

Fun moves, but quality-wise a little short, great positioning. I'd give it 2.5/3 stars out of 4. Not an easy 10c, but well protected by Smith's standard.

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