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Road Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Hand, The S 
Magic Bus S 
Motorcycle Diaries T 
Road Kill S 
Road Rash (or Tweaked?) S 
Road Trip T 
Tailspin T 

Tailspin 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: D Hare, A Wood, 1980
Season: it faces South and gets early AM shade
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 30, 2015

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Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the most fun you can possibly have climbing a corner 1/2 carpeted in thick moss!

In all seriousness, the climb is pretty good, and the crack and holds are pretty clean. The mossy face on the left hardly be noticed or commented on beyond that it does not really affect the climb.

Start from the roadside/ground to the right of a bushy corner, traversing up and left into the corner above the shrubs at about 8 meters up. Protect and climb the surprisingly good corner to the top. A rising traverse left from the top of the corner will take you to the anchors as for 'Road Rash'.

A 30m rap from this anchor will take you to the ground. Watch the ends of the rope carefully if you have any doubts about your true rope length.

Location 

The route ascends the obvious, right-facing, left-leaning corner that ascends from low to the large ledge over 100' up. The route 'Road Trip' branches off from this about halfway on a bolted line.

Protection 

A set of cams to 3" with doubles from 1.5"-3". The D'Antonio guidebook suggests a rack to 2", but a yellow and blue Camalot are certainly not only useful but eliminate some otherwise choices between runouts or tricky gear. The rap requires a 60m rope or longer if done in 1 rap.


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