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Tail Tucker Arete 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Worrall, Shannon
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: SCherry on Feb 9, 2014

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  • Description 

    The actual climb "Tail Tucker Arete" is just 2 pitches of technical face climbing/endurance crimping above the first pitch of "Tail Tucker" (Trad/Mixed). Combine it with the final pitch of "The Shining Slab" to make for a great long, clean 4-pitch line up the tallest section of the cliff. The 2 crux pitches follow the clean face just left of the prominent arete marking the left side of the Tail Tucker Corner/dihedral.

    Pitch 1:(10a) begin down hill about 20 feet from Lunch Rock and climb technical slab on slick grey stone up to a 2-bolt belay just below the start of the prominent corner/dihedral. 80 feet and 8-10 bolts. You can lower/rap from here or you have a few options to keep going including the mixed line "Tail Tucker" which moves into the corner proper, or you can move right to link into "Offspring" or "Cruise Line". Aim your sights to the left to join into the Tail Tucker Arete pitches.

    Pitch 2:(11d) The first actual "Tail Tucker Arete" pitch. Begins by climbing left to a couple thin moves that get you established on the face (10c). Then climb about 15 feet to the right of the line of bolts for "The Shining Slab" on the left side of the prominent arete (you'll pass a large chain anchor marking the end of the first pitch of Shining Slab) until you reach a short right facing corner with a finger crack in the back. Climb up the corner onto the face where you'll encounter a short section of sustained crimps (crux) and up to a hanging belay close to the arete proper. Maybe 120 feet and 12-14 bolts total.

    Pitch 3: (11d) Leave the belay and immediately launch into another similarly sustained section of crimps (crux). The climb then moves out closer to the arete proper for a few bolts and then up onto the white slab which turns back to orange rock towards the top. This whole pitch is fairly sustained. It ends at a perfect small crescent shaped ledge with an anchor with rap rings. 120 feet and 14 bolts. *You could end here and rap back to the ground but at this point you're only one easier pitch from the Summit.

    Pitch 4: (10c/d?) This is the final summit pitch for several lines including Stellar Slab, Shining Slab and Tail Tucker. Incorrectly rated 10a in the ACSD guide this pitch has a couple tricky spots separated by easy terrain. Climb up off the belay into a 25 foot left facing corner. Climb up the corner passing a tricky spot thats harder than it looks. Then up a slab to a small roof. Turn the roof on its left and move up into a steep alcove/corner capped by a bigger roof. Turn this roof on its right side (tricky crux) and climb a final 20 feet of steep face to a nice ledge just below the top of the wall. Unrope here and scramble carefully to the top. 120 feet and 12 bolts.

    Location 

    Begins with the first pitch of "Tail Tucker Arete". To find this pitch scramble downhill about 20 feet off of lunch rock. The start is the first bolt line left of the start of "Cruise Line"

    Protection 

    16 quick draws, some extendable runners helpful. All anchors bolted


    Comments on Tail Tucker Arete Add Comment
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    Mar 26, 2017

    pitch 1 and 2 can be linked with a 70m and 20 quick draws. you will need a few alpine runners for rope drag.

    Feels really soft for the grade, maybe 11a/b.

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