Tail Tied Devil
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BETA PHOTO: Tail Tied Devil follows the cracks up and then to ...
This short fingers to hand crack is fun, but short. The 8+ rating seems to be adequate, but is certainly not any harder and may deserve an 8.
Across the descent gully from the Guillotine Flake
Single cams, and if someone is going to follow or you're setting a TR, you will need a long cordelette to sling the top of the pinacle and build an anchor.
By Kevin Keith
Aug 4, 2015
This route was originally rated 5.7+ which really is splitting hairs. I think this is consistent for the area. This route really needs an anchor. Be prepared to place gear or use a big sling or the rope itself to sling the top. I will work on getting some glue-ins in there soon.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
5.9 moves if you stick to the cracks, but with a minus sign for the brevity. Rather gritty in the midsection. Can be done at 5.7 using helper holds around the left side.