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Tail Feather 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Bingham (with Hannah North & Mike Engle)
Season: Afternoon shade
Page Views: 335
Submitted By: Boissal on Sep 12, 2016

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Description 

This route appears to be the now-bolted top-rope Dave Bingham mentions here.
It takes a direct line which stops at its own anchor about 10' below the top of P1 of Raindance, (although the last bit of slab to the Raindance anchor is worth climbing).
Scamper up a steepish shallow dihedral with crumbly quartz chunks to interesting moves on good patina then get your slab game on and friction up a pillar to the right of a tree, using the edge of said pillar to keep the climbing moderate.

Location 

Furthest left route on Flaming Rock, about 30' left of the start of Raindance.

Protection 

Bolts (I want to say 7 or 8) to an independent bolted anchor below the top of P1 of Raindance.
A 70 m works to reach and lower from the anchor on top of the first pitch of Raindance, adding a bit of fun climbing. Not sure how a 60 m would work from there, definitely OK from the lower anchor though.


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By dave bingham
Dec 10, 2016

With help from Hannah North and Mike Engle.
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
May 8, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

After a 21 year absence of climbing in The City I thought I'd do the highly recommended Raindance to get reacquainted....so followed the new guide's topo... and headed up this thing by mistake! At the time I thought it must be at least 7+ and not the 7 everyone thought...haha. In retrospect it may be a 10- but it's probably easier. I did find the bolting to be odd though with some of the clips to be long reaches, and down low felt a fall from the patinaed face would be nasty, so really didn't enjoy it much despite the wonderful rock.
By dave bingham
May 15, 2017

The guidebook topo and text describe this route as "20 feet or so left of Raindance", so you walk right by the heavily used staging area to get to Tail Feather. That said,the start of Raindance is a weird gully feature that's not so great looking. As for any "long reaches"; if you're reaching high to clip, it probably means you've got a bolt at your knees and should make another move before clipping!
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
May 19, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As someone unfamiliar with this part of The City the start of Raindance did not jump out at us, although the more direct line of Tail Feather did. I thought Tail Feather an aesthetic looking line, while the indirect first pitch of Raindance (which we only saw once we had gotten down) looked contrived (and even abandoned seeming - lol). As for the long reach part (btw, they weren't very hard for me at 6'2" to reach, but I figured they would be for a short climber), the first was down low after the short patina face (3rd bolt?), with the previous clip way below my feet where it felt like a fall would lead to a bad swing into that starting gully, and another was a bit higher with the clip off to the side. Anyway we didn't know Tail Feather had been bolted yet (from the topo it looked like it was the offwidth corner about 15' to the left, and not directly under the mid anchors of Raindance where we figured that route's first pitch would be), so it was hard to figure out where the 5.7 should be going! No harm done though, and it sure made the easier 2nd (5.5) pitch of Raindance seem delightful.
By Michael Johnson 1
Jun 19, 2017

Anchor needs to be rebolted. Top anchor is loose and bottom anchor is missing nut. Luckily you can climb about 15' more to the anchor at the top of P1 for Rain Dance.
By dave bingham
Jun 20, 2017

Tail Feather anchor has been repaired and is good to go. Thanks Hannah North!!

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