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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dave Anderson, John Teasdale. FFA P1: Terry Lien, Greg Olsen
Season: Wet after any rain.
Page Views: 1,656
Submitted By: Scott W on Sep 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Awesome tight fingers to start, boulder move crux with a pin. Finish up an 11a offwidth/chimey/flaring corner, FUN. Aside from the boulder move the route is consistent and really fun.


This route is directly above Model Worker and can be reached as such. Or do an easier route and rappel down into it via the Newest Industry slab anchors.


Gear to 3/4", double small stuff...maybe tripples in small stuff and really light on the .5-.75 inch gear.

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By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Aug 24, 2008

Broke the pin in the 11a flare today.
By Drewsky
Jun 26, 2013

The route still protects really well despite the pin(s) being gone. Small cams are the ticket at the lower crux, but I do remember using a larger cam or two in the upper squeeze/flared section.
By blakeherrington
Jan 10, 2015

This pitch is mega classic, but never gets done!

If you just climb Princely and then do a 5.5 rightward traverse for 10-15m you're standing at the base.
By Chris Mutzel
From: Seattle, Washington
Oct 25, 2015

I have to agree with Blake here. Amazing pitch!

I cannot wait to go back and do this again. I am not sure if I did it "right" today or not, but one of the coolest moves I have made in my rock climbing experience.

Given how simple this was to get to, I cannot believe it is not mentioned more often. Judging by some of the lichen, and might not get done TOO often but to call it dirty would go way to far. A strong climber can EASILY get to the chains at the base of the pitch via Blake's instructions.

Very well protected with small cams. Can be aided if you want to give up (don't!), and a nice set of chains at the top. What more to like?

Piton seemed solid today but I didn't test it very much ;)
By Ben Kunz
Aug 18, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Beta is all correct and appreciated! A great, very consistent pitch and definitely agree with the classic status.

I found the crux to be very hard - definitely deserves the Index 11c rating! I "walked up" to this climb hoping for a crushing good time. Instead I got a solid Index beat down! Ego bruising aside, this climb deserves much more attention.
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This pitch is now much cleaner. Most of the lichen is gone and the cracks and ledge are cleared of most dirt and plants.
By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 15, 2017

I tried this today on TR solo. This pitch is awesome and has some of the coolest moves I've ever done. At 6'4" the upper flare felt like the crux for me, I'm not sure how to approach it! While I'm not sure if my beta was correct, it definitely felt harder than other routes of this grade I've done at Index. Currently a little scruffy but totally climbable.

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