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Taco Sauce 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c AI3-4 X

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c AI3-4 Steep Snow X [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,002
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Jul 28, 2013

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Dino Damage

Description 

Taco Sauce is a narrow snow, ice, and easy rock couloir that splits a triangular buttress on the far left of Baldy Bowl, directly left of Dostie's Dare. It is critical that one climb this route when temps are very low and the ground is stable. I was soloing it a handful of years ago when the crux pitch dumped a ton of rocks onto me. I was saved when one of my ice tool tethers (not rated to hold anything) held onto me as I fell about a body length or so. My left arm is covered in thin scars from that day. One of the scarier moments I've had climbing. Would've been a much different outcome had both tools blown.

Route starts out as sorta steep typical Baldy Bowl snow, then narrows and steepens up into the buttress. Continues up and gets steeper up an iced up crappy rock step. Step continues for 30ft or so and eases up onto the plateau-ish area above the Bowl.

Note that 1,000ft includes snow climbing. Actual technical section is about 300ft up the center of the eastern 'Triangle Buttress'.

Location 

Route is up the left side of the bowl, striaght up the middle of the 'Triangle Buttress'. Descent is via whatever you like, since it tops out atop the Bowl.

Protection 

Light rack with stubbies, handful of nuts skipping sizes, and small cams (optional).


Photos of Taco Sauce Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep snow
Steep snow
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down after getting hit
Looking down after getting hit
Rock Climbing Photo: After getting knocked down
After getting knocked down
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux ahead
Crux ahead
Rock Climbing Photo: Narrow
Narrow
Rock Climbing Photo: Low in the route
Low in the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Route goes straight up the middle of that buttress...
BETA PHOTO: Route goes straight up the middle of that buttress...

Comments on Taco Sauce Add Comment
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Oct 26, 2013

Taco Del Rio......wow, great story. Sorry to learn of the scars/injury, but glad to see you made it down okay. We spent a lot of time exploring those gulleys and towers, above the bowl, in the 80's & 90's, but no blood spilled.

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