Doc Bayne following pitch 1 on the FA of StoneWall...
South Carolina may not have many cliffs, but this one should not be missed. Many regard the face climbing here to be the best of the granite domes in the Southeast. The dense grain lends itself to amazing crimps, crystals, and knobs, with the occasional watergroove or crack thrown in. True to the Southern style, expect wild and exciting climbs in an secluded setting.
Most of the cliff faces SE-S. Getting an early start is best to maximize the sun exposure. Avoid this cliff in the warmer months because there is no tree coverage. Don't expect to see any other parties out there. Those willing to take on the adventure should be prepared to self-rescue. Due to the nature of the hike and terrain, help is far away. A fair warning to those not accustomed to the SE granite, the climbing that is 2-3 grades below the routes rating are often R or even X rated. While there are some easier climbs on the face, don't expect any clip-ups.
New route development is not allowed. Leave your drill at home. Climbing here is a privilege. Do not jeopardize the fragile access. If enough climbers start frequenting the area, a self-help kiosk may be developed.
Unfortunately, access is limited. Climbing is only allowed on the South Faces between September 1st and December 31st. You MUST wait until the Park Ranger office opens at 9am in order to sign waivers for your party. Only climbers age 18 or older with a picture ID will be permitted to climb. If it has rained recently it may help to call the park office the day before to see if they will allow climbing, (864)878-9813. The office is located across from the East Gate.
Drive through the East Gate and pay the park fee ($5/person). Drive straight until you see a sign on the right for White Oaks, turn right here. Park at White Oaks area near the picnic shelter. Walk down the road towards cabin 15 and 16. Just before the gate on the road towards the cabins, turn right onto a trail that leads into the woods. Look for the short section of wooden fence. The trail heads slightly left and up hill here and becomes more noticeable after this section. Follow this trail as it ascends to the base of the cliff. You will reach a saddle just before the hiking becomes slightly technical. Scramble over two easy slabs and do some mild bushwacking until you reach a large boulder. Walk left around the boulder and ascend a steep gulley behind it. After the gulley you will be on mossy slabs. Keep an eye out for pink tape tied to trees. Follow the tape until you reach the base of the Watergroove Wall. Turn left and continue along the base for 5-10 minutes to reach the base of the Main Wall. This should take between 40-75 minutes depending on fitness level. Expect a sustained uphill ascent.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 4.7 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Table Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Table Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Table Rock:
Featured Route For Table Rock
Peelin' Feelin' 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
PG13 South Carolina
: Table Rock
: Main Face
One of the easier routes on the main face, but don't let it fool you. This one makes you work for it, wishing the next bolt was just a little closer. While the bolts are well spaced, it is by no means a dangerous route, despite what your butt may be telling you.There is a direct start that comes in from the left with two bolts and one finger sized piece of gear. It is a stout variation, but preferred if you don't have the #6 camalot or don't like offwidths. Getting off the ground is tricky...[more] Browse More Classics in South Carolina
CC beginning pitch 3 FA Stonewall Action.
Kris Kline on second ascent of Stonewall fall 1990...
Doc working on FA pitch two of StoneWall Action 19...
White Oaks parking area with picnic shelter. Park ...
BETA PHOTO: The trail essentially follows a saddle to the top.
BETA PHOTO: Notice the wooden fence on the right. The trail be...
BETA PHOTO: View from the East Gate Road.
By george wilkey
From: travelers rest sc
Dec 30, 2013
- UPDATE* there's been a slight change in the access. you can still park at white oak parking area but when you walk down the road toward cabin 16 you will find the road gated. there is a new trail that turns right off the road about ten feet before the gate. follow this trail a couple hundred yards until it connects with the old trail at the wooden fence.
you can also take a trail directly out of white oak parking area that links with the new trail.
you can also park at a pullout on the right side of the road to cabin 16 just before the gate. room here for 3-4 cars and I was told by a ranger we could park here.
By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Dec 30, 2013
Thanks for mentioning the trail reroute...we did that a couple of years ago on the Adopt A Crag trail day because they don't want people walking past the cabins. The other big accomplishment for that trail day was the killer set of rock stairs in the steepest section of the approach.
From: western NC
Jan 12, 2014
Thanks for adding this section Tom. This is one bada$$ piece o rock.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 16, 2014
Thanks for the trail head update.
Jan 20, 2014
I was wondering when someone would post this on MP! One thing that might be worth mentioning in future posts and what not, I found out that if you sneak around to the north west side of TR, over looking the reservoir and get caught on watershed property, they'll arrest you for terrorism. The ranger said since it was a public water consumption facility, they consider anyone back there a threat. But man, it would be great to get some time on that part of the rock, eh? Good work on the post, especially with keeping conservation of the routes and sustainability in mind. Take care, stay safe!