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YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Tim Kemple Jr. (Dogboy)
Page Views: 2,490
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Jan 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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there thats better... i fixed the angle haha


This is more of a v9 boulder problem than a proper route - if this block had rolled all the way down to the Blackjacks instead of perching itself above a steep hillside, there would be no need for bolts at all. Start with one hand on the left arete and the other on a good crimp and start squeezing and slapping up. Around the second bolt, make a hard move into a shallow two-finger undercling/pinch above your head and then make a blind throw to a glorious jug around the corner.

The second bolt is usually stick-clipped because clipping it is next to impossible. If you go this route you won't make a clip until the business is done. Falls near the end of the crux can be exciting, though - make sure the belayer is out of the way. Has been bouldered.


The furthest left route at Wiamea.


bolts, often loose. Bring a wrench to tighten the second.

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Rock Climbing Photo: TABDITO... you can see by the angle of the draws t...
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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jan 8, 2008

So as to add a little depth to this description and to clear up any questions about the route name--The route is an acronym for something rather profane...I'm no prude or anything, but considering I'm a teacher, I feel like I am not at liberty to share it (The role model guilts are getting in the way). Perhaps someone with less couth could do the dirty deed of explaining said acronym!?
By Ladd
Jan 8, 2008

Take A Big Dump In The Ocean

I teach juvenile felons, yes, really.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jan 8, 2008

Thanks for stepping up to the plate on that one, Ladd. Guess it's your job as admin., eh?

It's a shame that more New Hampshirians don't visit the Adirondacks....well, maybe that's a good thing; otherwise, the list of comments that need follow-up would be unmanageable. But then again, I wouldn't be the author of practically every descriptions for the area!
By Ladd
Jan 10, 2008

Actually Chris, Jay and Kayte were making trips over to spider's web before they left for vacation. I'm also going to start heading over your way more often once the weather gets better! Soon enough we'll start adding some routes to the Dacks.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jan 10, 2008

Yeah, I knew those two along with Jay Conway were coming over, but no one else. Let me know when you do, and we can meet up.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 15, 2013

got on it today and found the movement surprisingly fun!
only thing that is weird is that if you dont basically stick clip the whole route the falls from the crux could be sketchy or at least lame and unnecessarily exciting, i tried it the safe way :) FUN!
By M Sprague
From: New England
Feb 5, 2013

I got on this thing years back, when I was a lot stronger. The attempt ended very quickly. It seemed like you need long arms and a lot of power. Cyberblock, next to it, seemed much more doable if you don't have an 8 foot wingspan (though still reachy in the crux).
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Apr 15, 2015
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

If it wasn't for the uncomfortable two-finger undercling, this would get 4 stars IMO. The moves up to that point are incredible and even the throw to the jug (really just a campus rung) is fun. Felt low end 13c to me, but I'm 5'7" and those are some big spans.

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