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Ta Ma De (aka Xiao Fei Ji) 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: P1: Ken and Karen '98, P2: Paul Collis, Alex Xi Tang '03
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 24, 2010

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A devilish crux near the beginning of pitch one leads to excellent, balancy, varied climbing above. Be careful when working the beginning of this route, the fall is kind of sketchy. You need an alert belayer and climber.

P1- The climb goes up the left side of the cave entrance, opposite Da Fei Ji. The crux is basically getting off of the big ledge and established up above the next bolt. Some pretty sneaky beta makes a few moves easier, but there still a bit of thugging required. The upper route is still full value. You can top out the first pitch either straight up or to the left, same grade.

P2- continue straight up from the first belay, over the overhang for another 8 to 10 meters. Watch for some loose rock here (and all of Twin Gates upper pitches).


The obvious, larger 'gate' of Twin Gates bosts two routes that frame either side. THis is the left of the two -- Da Fei Ji is on the right and is perhaps the signature route of the area. Thought rated the same, this route definitely has a harder crux.


Bolts to fixed chain anchors. Easy to top rope.

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