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T-Rex
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T. Rex 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Ingels, M. Peterson, RJ Gauer
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: Kole DeCou on Mar 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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T-Rex beta

Description 

Not the best rock, but a perfect flat little summit and some wild face climbing make this a classic. Pitch 1 gets all day shade, Pitch 2 gets all day sun.

Pitch 1) 40' 5.9 From the north-west side, go up a hand crack to a big ledge below the limestone band. Clamber right over some loose blocks and build a belay on the south face.
--or--
Pitch 1 variation) 40' 5.10 The the good looking corner on the west face. Probably requires big gear.

Pitch 2) 60' Go up the right-hand corner in the limestone band, then past 2 drilled angles to the summit. Super fun. A little looseness, but not too bad.

Descent: Single rope rap off the back. The anchor has recently been renovated with new bolts.

Location 

Park at Chimney Rock Parking (end of Andante road). Follow the trail east toward T. Rex and Botany 500. After 0.25 miles go left on a small trail. When this trail starts going the wrong way follow drainages up to T. Rex. Shouldn't involve much bushwhacking if done right.
GPS: 34,52.883'N 111,48.300'W

Protection 

Nuts, 2 each to #3 Camalot.


Photos of T. Rex Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: T-Rex as seen from the west. route starts on north...
BETA PHOTO: T-Rex as seen from the west. route starts on north...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap off the back side of his head!
BETA PHOTO: Rap off the back side of his head!
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Biber follows the face moves at the end of th...
Doug Biber follows the face moves at the end of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug rappels while Heather waits her turn to desce...
Doug rappels while Heather waits her turn to desce...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heather Hayes leading the wild face climbing at th...
Heather Hayes leading the wild face climbing at th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Biber at the wide crack above the roof on the...
Doug Biber at the wide crack above the roof on the...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch of T Rex- a clean dihedral with a ...
The first pitch of T Rex- a clean dihedral with a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: T. Rex Topo
BETA PHOTO: T. Rex Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: T. Rex
T. Rex

Comments on T. Rex Add Comment
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By Ryan Z
May 25, 2013

There is another start that begins in the notch between T-Rex and Sipapu. I climbed it on accident and was pleasantly surprised. It was basically a hand crack through a bulge, some blocky choss, then a tapered hands to fingers crack (5.10 PG13). Belay on a ledge then traverse right and join the standard 2nd pitch. The standard last pitch felt like 5.9+ at most by Sedona standards.
By mikeyrob
Dec 11, 2014

Hey climbed this route Tuesday Dec 9, wife got a migraine and could not follow me up it. I rapped down and got the gear, but my rope got stuck. Went back this morning to get it and it is gone. Whoever snagged it, please return it to Flagstaff Climbing. I can pick it up there.
By bildeen
From: Sedona, AZ
Oct 24, 2016

Good little route, super cool summit. Does not deserve the R rating it gets in the Bloom/Wolfe guide. Good pro all the way on both pitches and spicy moves above the old drilled angles that protect the final slabby face moves.

One 60m gets you down.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

P1: Starting at precisely the saddle, we climbed the obvious left-facing corner with hand crack. Mostly solid rock. (5.8)
P2: Very exciting face climbing, although definitely not R-rated. Still... pulling that final crux move on sandy rock with feet above two ancient pitons... just don't fall and nothing to worry about! Found ample placements in the .3 to .75 range on the lower part of this pitch. (5.9)

The summit is rextacular! One of the coolest in Sedona for sure.