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T-Bones Tonight 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 4,174
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Very pumped. Tryin to take a rest

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


T-Bones takes the large left-facing corner just a little bit right from where the trail hits the wall. It's a beautiful layback & gradually widening hand crack up to a large, wonderful #3 Camalot roof.


An assortment of cams from wide fingers to hands, two cupped-hands pieces for the roof. No #4 Camalot necessary.

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By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

sweet roof. looks kinda intimidating, but isn't.
By Jason Haas
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

It's true no #4 camalot is necessary, but it can be placed at the lip of the roof from great handjams if desired. I placed everything from .5-#3 camalots and a #4camalot over the roof.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Oct 19, 2009

Recommend 3 blue Camalots for the finish.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 10, 2010

Steve Hong FA? I recall one of the hangers having the 'SH' stamp on it.
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 1, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

A fun route no doubt. No way this is 12-. It's like an easier version of King Cat. If king Cat is 11+ then this is 11.
By Dave Holliday
Oct 21, 2014

Re: the comparison with King Cat. I did this route yesterday and King Cat a couple of weeks ago. This is, you know, just like, my opinion, man, but I found this harder than King Cat. The roof on KC is harder but I felt like getting to the roof is harder on T-Bones. Your mileage may vary, and all that.

Edit: there were a couple of carabiners on the anchor that were in pretty bad shape (about halfway worn through). The party who did this right before us replaced one and I replaced the other with a small locker.
By Moritz B.
Nov 4, 2015

The start is a little sketchy, watch what you place your feet on.
My jamming technique sucks, so I had to layback large sections of the dihedral. Is this normal or do people finesse and jam their way up this dihedral?
#4 is nice to have but not a must. Great route!
By khoa
From: Tacomarado
Apr 12, 2016

fa: steve hong

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