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T-Bones Tonight T 
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T-Bones Tonight 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 4,296
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Very pumped. Tryin to take a rest

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

T-Bones takes the large left-facing corner just a little bit right from where the trail hits the wall. It's a beautiful layback & gradually widening hand crack up to a large, wonderful #3 Camalot roof.

Protection 

An assortment of cams from wide fingers to hands, two cupped-hands pieces for the roof. No #4 Camalot necessary.


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By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

sweet roof. looks kinda intimidating, but isn't.
By Jason Haas
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

It's true no #4 camalot is necessary, but it can be placed at the lip of the roof from great handjams if desired. I placed everything from .5-#3 camalots and a #4camalot over the roof.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Oct 19, 2009

Recommend 3 blue Camalots for the finish.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 10, 2010

Steve Hong FA? I recall one of the hangers having the 'SH' stamp on it.
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 1, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

A fun route no doubt. No way this is 12-. It's like an easier version of King Cat. If king Cat is 11+ then this is 11.
By Dave Holliday
Oct 21, 2014

Re: the comparison with King Cat. I did this route yesterday and King Cat a couple of weeks ago. This is, you know, just like, my opinion, man, but I found this harder than King Cat. The roof on KC is harder but I felt like getting to the roof is harder on T-Bones. Your mileage may vary, and all that.

Edit: there were a couple of carabiners on the anchor that were in pretty bad shape (about halfway worn through). The party who did this right before us replaced one and I replaced the other with a small locker.
By Moritz B.
Nov 4, 2015

The start is a little sketchy, watch what you place your feet on.
My jamming technique sucks, so I had to layback large sections of the dihedral. Is this normal or do people finesse and jam their way up this dihedral?
#4 is nice to have but not a must. Great route!
By khoa
From: Tacomarado
Apr 12, 2016

fa: steve hong

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