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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Sword Of Damocles 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Joseffa Meir, 12/6/15
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces S/SW
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 6, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The hanging sword as seen from below. The route g...

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  • Description 

    This is an alternate P3 for Wind Tunnel or P2 for Rhombohedral. It has reasonable climbing and reasonable gear, though at first the idea of the massive flake turning loose hangs heavily over your head.

    The sword, a 30' x 3' x 1' thick flake, is tightly in contact at the bottom, and wedged at the top on the left, however, and does not seem to be actually a matter of impending doom upon closer inspection, as opposed to suspended by a single horse's hair....

    Yet with the fun of climbing, one is reminded of the ever present peril of Damocles.

    Head back South from the top of Rope To Ruin, presuming you have climbed that pitch to arrive here. Go just below a few small trees and up into a corner directly below the hanging corner. Alternate cams and sidepulls in the right and left side of the flake to its top, wondering at times if the giant spike you are on will fall in our geologic era, or far later.

    As you get to the top, you will see that it is actually pretty solid.

    At the top of the corner, traverse a few meters left to a large tree with rap slings. Up and to the climber's left, one can see the finish of Handcracker Direct. Up and to the right, one can see the top pitch of the Rhombohedral.

    Rap here, or finish on one of those, or their alternates.

    Location 

    This route lies 170' above the trail in a steep, shallow, left-facing corner. This is just to the right of the 3rd pitch of Wind Tunnel and just left of the 2nd pitch of Rhombohedral. Perhaps the best way to climb it independently is to start up by doing Rope to Ruin, and then at the top, go 10 meters to the right to reach the flake.

    Protection 

    A standard light rack including cams to 3" & slings.


    Photos of Sword Of Damocles Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Placing gear on the easy 2nd pitch.
    Placing gear on the easy 2nd pitch.

    Comments on Sword Of Damocles Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Dec 6, 2015

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damocles

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